Towel Radiator - Warm Towels and Dehumidify the Bathroom

When a person thinks of a bathroom, dry is not usually the first word that comes to mind. You have a humid, wet place with plenty of slick surfaces. When the shower or bath is not in use it can sometimes be a rather cold place, especially in the morning. However, a towel radiator can give you heat and at the same time dry your towels to a comfortable aridness.

First made popular in European hotels, a towel radiator functions as both a towel rack and as a towel dryer, the towel radiator is increasingly popular in the U.S. It slowly and gently radiates heat that dries and warms towels as they hang out. This can greatly reduce the time needed for a just recently wet rag to dry out as well as give it a comforting feel the next time it is needed.

You can find a towel radiator at a bathroom or sometimes at a plumbing store. Be prepared to take out the wallet, however; a good radiator can cost as much as a $1,000 or more depending upon model and design. This is definitely a luxury item and many people will decide that they are comfortable waiting for the dryer to finish.

If you decide that the luxury is something you want, however, then you can still get a relative bargain. Before purchasing a unit, check out its BTU consumption and EPA power ratings. As they are designed to be used in a bathroom most are safely designed. Still, it does not hurt to look at the instructions and follow all safety tips to the letter.

Maintenance and repair is also an issue. As a towel radiator is a radiator, it will occasionally need to be bled for excess water and air. If you are comfortable with the task, you can often get a radiator key and attend to the job yourself when the rings are not getting as hot as they should get. Before bleeding the system, however, you should make sure to disconnect the unit from the heating system. Not doing so could let air in the moment you let the air back out, resulting in a zero sum game.

Towel radiators are expensive items, but the luxury that they provide is a must for some people. Proper shopping can hold down costs, and occasional DIY maintenance can help even more. With that effort you can be rewarded with warm, dry sheets the moment you step out of the shower.

Filtering Unit For Removing Odor From Plumbing Vent Pipes Are Alike And Different

Filtering units for removing odor from plumbing vent pipes, most often referred to as stink pipes by plumbers, are the best solution age old problem of stink coming out of the plumbing/septic tank roof vent. The vent is design to release gas to the outside air so the waste water can flow down the drains. What are the differences between the various manufacturers? They are all similar in appearance with the outer shell made of PVC and ABS design. Sweetfilter was epoxy coated Black. Sweetfilter, VentPure, and Peacemaker show they are registered. Sweetstack has one way off and on valves and cannot be sold in Minnesota. OdorHog is now available with solar powered exhaust fan. Is that an added part to fail? VentPure and SweetAir units have rain cap because their chemical medias must be protected from moisture.

All chemical medias are a mixture of Carbon with other additives. You have to check the chemistry, or be a chemist, to see which is really the best chemical. What the home owner is looking for is a chemical media whose primary target is Hydrogen Sulfide. Hydrogen Sulfide produces that rotten egg odor that any home owner is familiar with if they have any type plumbing problem. The secondary problem is the Ammonia which produces the urine odor.

The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office is only place to search to find if a design is patented or a brand name is registered. Only Sweetfilter is registered with The United States Patent and Trademark Office. There are no other sewer/septic tank odor eliminator vent filter units registered!

VentPure and Peacemaker were registered in individual States only. Any brand name that has a registered Trademark in a State only, can be copied in another State. In Federal Court you cannot protect your brand name unless you have registered it in The United States Patent and Trademark Office.

Sweetstack, OdorHog, VentPure, Peacemaker, and SweetAir filtering units are made primarily with the common chemical mixtures for removing odor from plumbing vent pipes and can never get a Federal Registration. Sweetstack and SweetAir have Sweet in their name. Sweetfilter is registered, Sweetstack and SweetAir cannot be registered in The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

What unit is best? What unit should you the home owner purchase to install? Sweetfilter, Sweetstack, OdorHog, VentPure, Peacemaker, and SweetAir are all similar, but are all different, only you the home owner can make the finial decision. You want your filter to operate like a odor eliminator on your roof top vent, most often referred to as a stink pipe, You want the smell to be gone!

Emergency Plumbers

Almost everyone who lives in a house with plumbing, at some point of time, has had plumbing emergencies. These could range from a simple leaky faucet in your kitchen to ankle deep water in your bedroom, to clogged drains, leaky pipes, malfunctioning water heaters.

To prevent such problems and keep the home running smoothly, the one thing we all need is information on plumbers or companies who specialize in dealing with such emergencies. These are the people who will provide quick and efficient service when needed.

The rates for these emergency services can range form $40 upward. It depends on the extent of the work required and the material and manpower involved. Plumbers would ideally come under two broad categories -- commercial and industrial. Commercial plumbers cover private homes and both public and private offices, and industrial plumbers cover factories and large manufacturing units.

There are companies who tackle only drains and sewers. Drain Brain, Blast-off Sewer and Drain Service, ECONO Sewer and Drain Cleaning Service, Professional Sewer and Drain Cleaning to name a few. They all offer good rates for services, a payment option of your choice, fast and efficient service, free estimates, discounts, and various other attractive offers. Some even have uniformed personnel and a central control room for quick responses.

There are others who offer home improvement services, updating of old pipe systems and fitting of new faucets and other attachments and maintenance contracts for yearly maintenance at attractive rates. Some of the players are: Rozza Plumbing, Pleasure In The Job, All In A Day's Work, ASAP Sewer & Drain Service, Dial-A-Sewer-Man and Island Plumbing & Heating Supply CORP Inc. Or, of course, you could look up the ones closest to you in the Yellow Pages or the Internet. Most of them are professional and you can trust them to fix your plumbing troubles in no time at all!

Plumbing Tips - Inspection

It is clearly important to be able to gain access to all parts of the underground drains. This is usually done by providing inspection chambers at various points. To meet the Building Regulations, chambers have to be provided: at junctions between drains; where the drain changes direction or gradient; at or near the beginning of the drain; and at intervals of not more than 45m on long, straight runs. In between the inspection chambers, the drains should be laid in straight lines.

The usual form of an inspection chamber has sides made of brick, often cement-rendered either on the inside or the outside. At the base of the hole are open channels to which the drains are connected and along which the water in the drains runs.

The inspection chamber is at a junction between three drains. The branch drain is connected to the main one with a specially shaped half-channel bend which is swept in the direction of the flow of water through the main channel.

The channels are built up with benching - smoothly finished concrete shaped to direct any splashes back into the channels. The top of an inspection chamber is covered with a manhole cover a heavy, cast-iron plate set in a cast-iron frame. If there is a manhole cover within a building it usually has to be screwed down to the frame and the joint sealed with grease.

With modern drain materials, it may not be necessary to have full-scale inspection chambers at all junctions and bends in the drain. Instead, rodding points may be used. Small circular inspection chambers may also be fitted.

A rodding point has a length of pipe with a gentle bend connected at an angle to the drain. The other end of the pipe leads to ground level and is covered with a suitable removable cover. If the drain needs unblocking, the cover is removed and drain rods passed down into the drain. Rodding points are small and neat - unlike large, ugly manhole covers - but some inspection chambers may still be needed.

In older properties, the inspection chamber at the boundary of the property may have an interceptor trap fitted at the outlet of the channel. To gain access to the length of drain between the trap and the main sewer, the trap has its own rodding arm which bypasses the U-bend. The rodding arm is fitted with a stopper (sometimes secured with a chain) to prevent the drain water from bypassing the U-bend, too.

This inspection chamber may also be ventilated by means of a short pipe projecting above ground from the side of the chamber. The pipe is usually fitted with a grilled ventilator, behind which is a flap. The theory is that the flap allows fresh air into the drain but prevents foul air from escaping. Ventilators are probably more of a hindrance than a help, and damaged ones can be removed completely rather than repaired. Interceptor traps also give problems the rodding arm stopper can fall out and cause a blockage in the trap if it is not suspended by a chain.

Bathroom Remodel Designing - Use Up the Space Carefully

Bathroom remodel design is the best option to give your bathroom a creative look by making careful use of all the space inside it. Some people even resort to breaking walls of the room to make it even more spacious. Remodeling a bathroom means to make effectively re-design the walls and avoid breaking up of the walls and using the existing space to the full. It also involves making use of attractive floorings and proper organization of the sanitary ware and toiletries to make it look appealing.

The idea is to use the existing space intelligently to maximize the space usage because not all bathrooms are large in area. You should double check if you want to just do minor room re-designing or give a totally new look to the room. You need to plan out well before starting to do any remodel design work. It would be a great idea to plan out the remodeling by thinking about all the small details like how high you want the cabinet and shelves inside the room what should be the color and design of the new tiles, how would you organize the toiletries, how would you go about decorating the wall of the room.

Bathroom remodel designing may take several days. In such a case, you may have to use the bath while it is under repair. Hence, you must prioritize your work and initiate the work in such a way that you will be able to use the room at a certain time of the day while you carry on with the repairing work. Before you take up a remodeling contract to redesign your computer, you must find out the price estimate of the work that has to be done on the room. You must also check the requirements of the new materials that are needed for repairing your bathroom. You can do this by simply keeping a tab of things like paint, plumbing materials, ventilating options, tiling, appliances, materials for making cabinets and shelves.  The idea is to go for good quality items rather than cheap ones if you are not looking forward to re-construct your bathroom in the future for a long time.

Unlike before, people now not only like to get refreshed in their bathroom but also get entertained while taking shower or refreshing. Hence, installing a plasma television with a DVD player and a sound system can be a great idea to get you entertained. If you would like to remodel your bathroom design in such a way, it is advisable to mount the speakers inside the ceiling or the walls of the room.

New Combi Boiler Installation - 14 Steps to Avoid For The Cowboys!

There is lots to consider when you are considering a new boiler installation. This guide will take you through the process from start to finish. This is quite a difficult task describing in words what a Gas Safe engineer does every day. Not all of the points will be relevant to your particular installation but this guide will at least give you an idea of what to expect from your new boiler and what to expect from an installer coming to your house.

Things to consider:
- Your budget - grants, loans and other schemes
- Finding an installer - getting 3 quotes
- The current water pressure of your system
- Your current system - layout/design and condition, boiler siting
- Your hot water demand - bathrooms, ensuites etc
- Choosing a boiler
- Upgrading your pipework - gas and water pipework
- Adding a MagnaClean
- Adding thermostatic radiator valves/room thermostat
- Adding additional radiators
- Powerflusing your system or flushing your system
- Commissioning your system
- Filling in the benchmark/notifying building control
- Advising the customer on how to get the best efficiency from their boiler
- Installers working to best practice

Your budget - grants, loans and other schemes

There are lots of schemes available depending on your circumstances. The new Boiler Scrappage Scheme is available to all households in England who have a G rated boiler in their home. It gives £400 towards the cost of a new boiler installation. There is also a scheme called the Warm Front Scheme which provides upto £3500 towards home heating and insulation improvements. To be eligible you must be on some sort of benefit or be a low income household. It is normally a bad idea to finance your boiler installation using a credit card or bank loan. Although there are cost benefits to be gained by having a new condensing boiler these will be eaten up by repaying the loan. If your current boiler is in good working order and you are worried about it breaking down then a British Gas homecare agreement is advisable at around £19 per month. An Npower agreement which offers less benefits is also available at around £7.99 per month.

Finding an installer - getting 3 quotes

You should aim for 3 quotes. This is more than adequate to get a good idea of what you want. Each individual engineer will give you different ideas on how best to go forward. They will also have their own favourite boilers and methods of working. It is a good idea to bounce ideas and questions around to ascertain whether the engineer is actually competent in the field he will be required to work within. Unfortunately there are lots of newly qualified plumbers and gas engineers in this industry and although they are perfectly safe and 'passed off' to work they may not be a) able to advise you of the most efficient method going forward, b) advise you completely wrongly or c) not actually have an answer. Sometimes it may be difficult to find someone you trust; after all, this will be a huge investment.

Often using the yellow pages can be a bad idea. So can using someone who posts leaflets through the door. The best and trusted method will always be by personal recommendation. Asking the engineer lots of questions can also give you some degree of confidence. Checking their Gas Safe registration should also be a priority. Unfortunately there are lots of illegal gas engineers operating and these people are putting lives at risk. Checking someones gas safe registration is very easy. Ask to see a Gas Safe registration card. Every engineer carries a card and it amazes me that 99.5% of customers do not ask for ID. Every engineer should be proud of their qualifications and love to show them off. Do not be shy and in future make a point of it.

Once you have got your 3 quotes you need to analyse what you are getting. Quotes should be broken down as much as possible. This will give you an idea of what exactly you are paying. I don't understand how companies can justify listing a load of materials and specifications and then adding a figure. Costs should be fixed price costs whether you are a millionnaire or on a very low budget;)

It is best to get a written contract for your own benefit. If the company doesn't offer one then you can easily draw one up. This will protect against faults that might develop later on after the system has been installed. If installed to best practice and following all manufacturers instructions then a central heating system will only rarely breakdown due to a manufacturer component fault. That is why respected installers offer a personal guarantee on all their work, this can be upto 5 years but 3 years is normal. This is alongside normal manufacturer guarantees which can be upto 5 years parts and labour. Other ways of finding an installer can be the internet however personal recommendation is always the best method.

The current water pressure of your system

Its very important to measure your mains water pressure to ascertain whether a combi will actually work. You might not have enough pressure for a combi system to work so this will need to be measured. A competent engineer will make sure that this is one of the first things he does. If you do have low pressure then your installation options will be limited. One example is when a mains pressure of 0.8bar from a customers property is measured. A certain Vaillant boiler which gives their full hot water output at just 0.5bar would be recommended by any competent engineer. This means that this boiler would be one of a very few boilers that could be considered for this customers property. It could have been a costly mistake not testing the mains water pressure and this is one reason why this should be done as standard. Having said all of the above, problems are very very rare. Your water company can advise on what your water pressure is likely to be if you are concerned. If for say you live on a very big hill you may have reasons for concern.

Your current system - layout/design and condition, boiler siting

Your current situation could have a large affect on cost of installation. Moving a boiler can add considerable expense as routing pipework can often be very tricky. Moving a boiler nearer the gas meter can sometimes cost the same as a straight swap. This is because the gas meter pipework upgrade will require less materials and less labour. Although some re-routing of water pipes will be required. If you need to upgrade from a system to a combi boiler this will be the costliest combi boiler installation. The system layout and pipework will need altering. The hot water cylinder and tanks in the loft will need removing. If you have a back boiler this will add time and expense on as well.

This can sometimes be difficult to remove as may cause the chimney to weaken. Your installer would be able to advise whether the removal of the back boiler is best left to a contracted a builder. If there is going to be new pipework in your property then it is desirable to have this under the floorboards and out of site. It makes for a better, cleaner job. Beware of companies wishing to take shortcuts or indeed charging more for lifting carpets and floorboards. There are strict rules governing where pipes are laid in joists. The size of notches can weaken joists and limits are set for this reason. It is simply unacceptable to hang pipes loose - even pipes containing water. Floorboards should be screwed back into place and not nailed as this will just cause the floorboard to loosen over time. Carpets and other fittings should be left as found. It is normally the customers responsibility to move furniture and other items that are in the way. This is due to responsibility issues. Common sense should always prevail of course.

If you have concrete floors then this can add alot of expense as digging into the floor can be costly. The pipes will then need to be wrapped to ensure the concrete does not perforate them and this ultimately causes a leak under your floor. Fixing this leak will mean you having to re-dig the concrete and replacing the pipework. If done correctly and in accordance with manufacturers instructions its a very simple task. An engineer who is not in the know as regards to regulations can cause severe problems. Boiler siting can also cause problems sometimes. New condensing boilers may cause pluming issues and this can cross neighbour boundaries. Pluming kits are available and can eradicate this problem. Boiler flue terminal positions can also be a problem but these will be rare. The terminal needs to be a minimum 30cm away from window or door openings to stop products of combustion re-entering the property. If there is no other alternative than to put your boiler next to a window that is not in use then it will either need blocking up, ie cementing and bricking up or it will need screws put in so that it cannot open. Although the latter method is within the scope of the regulations it would be recommended better bricking it up.

Your hot water demand - bathrooms, ensuites etc

Even the lowest output of boiler (eg a 24KW) can, if installed correctly, cope with up to 14 radiators. When determining which boiler will suit your needs you should do some research on boiler hot water output capacities. Some smaller output boilers will deliver in the region of say 9 litres of water per minute at a certain temperature. Bigger models will produce 16 litres and more. This difference will be the difference between an ok shower or a very powerful shower. It will also affect how long a bath takes to fill up. You will also see an impact if you have two bathrooms ie a main bathroom and an ensuite bathroom. Larger sized boilers will just be able to cope with two showers used simultaneously. Smaller boilers will definitely not. You need to consider how this will affect you. Further advice can be given by your chosen installer.

Choosing a boiler

Choosing a boiler can be difficult. There are so many boilers out there that only an expert can guide you through your needs and match them up with a suitable boiler. The better makes of boiler are Viessmann, Worcester and Valliant although some of the models from these manufacturers have been horrendous. These will be the earlier models and any expert will know which models to steer well clear of. The Viessmann 100 model (earlier model) has teething problems but everything has been resolved now and this is one of the leading models on the market if not the best. Of course every engineer will have his/her own preferences but if you go to any forum in the UK and ask if the Viessmann boilers are any good I will guarantee you wont get an expert saying anything against them.

Boilers can typically range in price from £400 (B&Q) to £1400 (top Vaillant model) Although the £400 one will last for years and years if installed properly it is open to debate whether this boiler will last 10 years and even if it does, how much money you will have to spend on repairs? A great budget boiler is the Glowworm Betacom 24KW. For the price it represents very good value. It will depend on your budget and what you feel comfortable. It is always advisable to get quotes for different boilers and you can see for yourself prices differences. The price of the boiler will include all guarantees and if there are any issues with faulty manufacturer parts etc your installer will be responsible for this. Buying your own boiler and getting an installer to fit it can present many problems.

For example, is the boiler you are buying relatively new? It may look new, ie unopened packaging etc but it may have been sitting in a garage for 2 years. If a boiler is not installed within one year of its manufacture date it will void any warranty. Also, if any components are missing from your boiler then you will be ultimately responsible for lost time and expense. Most installers will not work this way for the above reasons as they simply do not know the history of the boiler and if a component fails after the boiler has been fitted it could cause significant problems.

Your installer will match your needs to a suitable boiler

Upgrading your pipework - gas and water pipework

Gas pipework used to be run in 15mm from the meter to the boiler. There are new rules which mean that pipework must be upgraded to 22mm as new condensing boilers are required to run on 22mm copper pipework. If the routing is simple then this can be a simple job. Sometimes carpets need to be lifted and pipework will go under floorboards. A lot of companies have fixed prices for pipework alterations and this includes fittings to give you an idea of price and labour charges.

All pipework should be clipped, there are regulations governing clipping distances for gas pipework. Pipework should always be secured and must be sleeved if passing through a cavity wall. One end must be sealed also. Your installer will bring you up to speed if you do have any concerns. If you are going from a system boiler to a combi boiler there will be lots of extra work including altering pipework and removing tanks and cylinders. This will mean more space in your airing cupboard and loft space.

Adding a MagnaClean

Some companies will not fit and guarantee their work if you do not agree to having a MagnaClean fitted. This additional work can be carried out for a very reasonable price as they would be already carrying out work in the property. More information can be found by clicking on the MagnaClean website. Unfortunately new condensing boiler have very weak heat exchangers and the MagnaClean will save them from getting damaged. This is why most companies insist on every customer having one installed.

Adding thermostatic radiator valves/room thermostat

Adding thermostatic radiator valves can significantly reduce your heating bills. It allows each radiator to be controlled individually. Why have the heat on in the whole house when you only need it in one? It is recommend not turning a valve completely off but setting it to 1. Adding TRV's will in the long run save you lots of money and can be very cheap to install. Some companies will have offers when supplying and fitting these. Energy efficiency should be promoted whenever.

A room stat or a programmable room stat is a legal requirement. Your installer will advise what the best option for you is. A wireless stat will be more expensive but there is the advantage of no visible wiring.

Adding additional radiators

If you need to add additional radiators it is best to add these while having a new boiler installed. It will more than likely be cheaper. Some of your radiators may be undersized or very old and you should consider upgrading these.

Powerflusing your system or flushing your system

There is a huge difference between powerflushing your central heating system or just flushing your system. Powerflusing involves higher pressure and circulates fresh water and special chemicals around your system. It is normally needed on older systems as sludge and dirt builds up over years and years. This will mean that you either have cold spots or not very hot radiators. Having fresh water in a system means water can be heated up to the maximum pressure the boiler will allow and will mean hotter radiatiors which in turn means more efficiency. A powerflush is not a legal requirement when replacing your boiler but it is advisable. When a powerflush is taken with a boiler installation discounts can be given.

Normal cold and hot water flushing is a requirement when a boiler is installed. Cleanser and inhibitor is added. A hot and cold flush must be done in order to work to best practice. New boilers do not like any dirt in the system, heat exchangers can get very 'clogged' up and the cost of replacement can be very great.

Commissioning your system

Things that should be included in your installation and are considered best practise:

1. Flushing with Fernox or Sentinel product/filling with inhibitor from same
2. Roomstat/programmer, TRV's (best practise, recommended)
3. Balancing and commissioning according to manufacturers instructions, important so as not to invalidate warranty.
4. Decommisioning of old boiler, tanks and all waste materials associated with installation
5. Making good eg. new and old flue openings
6. Completion of Benchmark log book, important.
7. Notification of new boiler to Building Control
8. At least 3 years guaranteed on pipework and associated fitting (the boiler manufacturer will have their own guarantees.)

The above should be in writing to protect your expensive new purchase.

Filling in the benchmark/notifying building control

Filling in the benchmark and notifying building control is part of commissioning process and a legal requirement. Pressures and temperatures need to be taken to ensure the system is correctly configured. Not filling out the benchmark and not notifying building control may cause problems if you ever decide to sell your property as proof the boiler was installed by a competent person will be required.

Fundamentals of Kitchen Plumbing

Does kitchen plumbing give you nightmares? The kitchen is probably one of the busiest parts of your home especially if your family loves to eat and cook. The kitchen sink is frequently used making it more prone to leaks, damages and other plumbing problems. If you frequently experience these problems in your kitchen and you always have to call a plumber to take care of your plumbing needs, then you have probably spent a huge amount of money for these plumbers' service charges.

If you want to reduce your kitchen plumbing expenses, you should consider learning the fundamentals of kitchen plumbing. This will enable you to take care of the problem as soon as it occurs and fix it in no time. Aside from the money you have saved from the plumber's charges, you will also save some of your precious time because you don't have to wait for the plumber to arrive and you can do the repairs as soon as possible.

For someone who has no idea about plumbing and home system, this task could be a bit freaky. But simple kitchen plumbing is easy and almost anyone who has the capability to read, understand, and follow instructions could do it. There are lots of kitchen plumbing manuals and handbooks that you could read and study in order to gain necessary knowledge and basic information about how kitchen plumbing system works.

Kitchen plumbing mainly includes water supply, faucet fixture, and drain system. These are the main components of your kitchen sink. Generally, the kitchen sink is the only part of the kitchen that requires simple plumbing works like repairs and replacements. The dishwasher is usually connected with the kitchens water supply system and drainage for letting clean water in and taking dirty water out.

The water comes in and goes out through pipes. These pipes are part of the water supply system. The pipes run under the kitchen floor and sometimes in the wall. The vent pipes regulate the pressure in the drain. The soil stack is a pipe that can serve as a drain pipe and pull wastes down or a vent pipe to release gasses outside. You can find a valve usually located under the sink that will let you control and regulate the water supply for the kitchen.

Your home plumbing system could consist of many kinds and types of pipes. The plumbing system of a simple kitchen only consists of some supply pipes and a drain pipe. The supply pipes could lead to the main kitchen faucet, dishwasher, and other appliances that need water supply. These appliances usually share on one drain pipe to take dirty water or wastes out of your house.

This basic information could help you learn and understand your kitchen's plumbing system. This will enable you to understand the kitchen plumbing problems. You will be able to determine the cause of such problems and you will be able to find a way or a solution that will fix the problem. The kitchen has a simple plumbing system which means that if something goes wrong, the plumbing job would also be easy for you.

Plumbing Problems May Require a Plumbing Contractor

Plumbing is something everyone must deal with, whether finding a plumbing contractor for new construction, a remodeling project, or just providing plumbing repair.

When Do I Need to Call a Plumbing Contractor?

Some common problems found with plumbing include:
Rattling pipes; may be caused by several factors, most commonly because they are not sufficiently secured or strapped to the wall frame. The pipes may need to be properly secured.
Slow drains; may be partially clogged. If a kitchen sink, the dishwasher may be improperly plumbed. The drain may need to be unclogged, or the dishwasher plumbing corrected.
Loss of hot water when another faucet is turned on; especially in older homes when hot and cold water pressures are not balanced. A pressure balance valve may be required.
Toilet tank leaks; plumbing parts inside the tank or seals may need replacing.

To make sure these plumbing repair problems are properly addressed, or when doing a remodeling project, you may want to enlist the services of a licensed plumbing contractor.

Plumbing a Remodel or New Construction

A remodeling project might include new plumbing design or new plumbing installation. You will want to meet with the plumber and all contractors involved and develop a timeline, so everyone works together and the project goes smoothly.

Before taking bids from potential plumbing contractors, make sure you have detailed plans. Provide each candidate with an identical copy of the plans. Rule of thumb is to get at least three different bids for a project.

Ask candidates if they are licensed to do plumbing. Also request references. Ask each candidate when they could start, and when the project would be completed. Take the time to check references on other projects they have completed.

To find a licensed Plumbing contractor in your area, use references from people you know, or check with a local licensing agency. Online resources are also available; people in Canada can find a qualified, licensed plumbing contractor at http://www.handycanadian.com.

Shower Pan Replacement - Putting it Right

Shower pan replacement gets done after you notice water damage around the bathroom. Sure there are several patch up methods to slow the leaks, but getting deep into the shower is really the only way to a permanent fix. Here's where to start.

1. Tear Out

Getting the old shower base out lets you see what has happened and why the leak progressed. Clearly failure of the shower pan liner happened if water got out of the shower.

Getting out the damaged parts is crucial for building back.

2. Judging What To Leave And What To Replace

It takes some experience to know where to stop when tearing out the damaged parts. Letting everything dry helps to make that call. Sometimes walls may need to come out and sometimes floors do too. Those decisions are easier after everything has a chance to dry.

3. No Shaky Starts Allowed

No matter what type of shower goes back, the sub-floor and the foundation for the shower must be put back to be stable and not shaky. That often means more bracing and possible replacing deteriorated members too.

4. What Shower Base?

More than one kind of shower base will work for a replacement. Tile ready shower pans eliminate much of the skilled mortar work. But often tile ready pans cost so much that you could pay an installer to build you a traditional mortar shower for the cost of the pan alone. Maybe you choose to forget the tile and replace with an acrylic shower.

Building a tile shower pan goes together just like a new one once you have the damage control behind you.

5. Layers To Waterproof

Building a waterproof tile shower goes together layer by layer. Key components are the liner membrane as well as a special tile shower drain. These components do the hidden work of catching all the water that makes it through the floor itself. Get these right and you get a shower with the water in the right places for many years.

Shower pan replacement goes together just like a new installation after you get the old parts out and the damage contained. It takes judgement to decide when to quit on repairs. Once the damaged areas are dried, it becomes easier to know what must come out and what can stay.

Kitchen Remodeling - A Checklist for Your Kitchen Remodeling Project

Kitchen remodeling takes both time and money. A major remodel with top-of-the-line appliances and cabinets can easily run more than $100,000. As for time, allow at least four months for a remodeling job or, more realistically, six to eight months. It takes about two months for custom cabinet orders, more time for planning, order processing, shipping, demolition, installation, moving back into your kitchen and re-organization.

While it's tempting to get started as quickly as possible once you decide to remodel, it's better to catch your breath, do your homework and think through your plans because you don't have the time or money to make mistakes.

Start with the basics. Consider what the primary uses of the kitchen will be then collect ideas for enhancing your project. Put some initial thought into this prior to meeting with a contractor. Following is a checklist of items to consider when planning your kitchen remodel.

Determine the primary uses of your kitchen:
cooking


food storage


dining


equipment / utensil storage


specialized food preparation areas


waste disposal


laundry


secondary media center


message station


mini-office


hobby / craft center


entertaining


mudroom


traffic hub

Enhance your kitchen remodeling project:
Brainstorm with household members


Find ideas in model homes, showrooms, home shows, magazines, books and catalogs


Appliances - ovens, stoves, cook tops, refrigerators, dishwashers, range, microwaves, hoods, and exhaust fans


Cabinets - wood cabinets in oak, maple, cherry, hickory, pine, birch, metal, plastic, cabinet re-facing, kitchen storage items and kitchen islands


Countertops - stone, marble, quartz, granite, solid surface, wood, metal and Formica


Flooring - hardwood flooring, cork, bamboo, laminate, linoleum flooring, flooring installation, repair and refinishing floors


Lighting - light controls, chandeliers, fixtures, lamps, fluorescent lights, recessed and spot lighting


Sinks and Fixtures - kitchen faucets, stainless steel, brass, plastic and glass handles


Windows - skylight windows, double hung and single hung windows, casement and garden windows for growing herbs and plants


Select a design professional and/or contractor that meets your needs

The more details you can determine prior to your kitchen remodeling project the better. It will make your remodeling project more efficient and, thus, less expensive.

Essential Dishwasher Parts

You may need to replace dishwasher parts from time to time. Call or visit your local appliance parts outlet. There you will find a full selection of dishwasher parts you can buy to self-service your dishwasher. Some examples of commonly replaced parts are:

1) The drain hose. These are necessary for draining the machine back into the plumbing of your home. This hose can crack, tear, or become weak. You can replace it yourself for under $20.

2) Switches and latches. Door switches, selector switches, handle latches, knobs, and other switches can break off from time to time. These are usually available for under $20 each.

3) The air gap. This prevents waste from seeping back into the unit. It is located in the sink, near the faucet. If you've already tried unscrewing and cleaning the air gap, a new one can be had for under $15.

4) Dishwasher rack plastic repair material. If any parts of the two or three racks in your dishwasher break off, apply some of this glue-like material and stick the part back on. It costs around $20 or $30 a bottle. It's powerful stuff.

5) The complete pump and motor assembly. Motors and pumps can sometimes break down. Unfortunately, they cost anywhere from $100 to $200. Be sure to try and self-start the stuck motor by manually spinning it before you go and buy a new one.

6) Push-button control panels. These can short out, sometimes causing an alarming cloud of smoke. If you ever experience this, disconnect the power, pull the unit away from the wall if you can, and get a new push-button control panel for about $100.

7) Internal control panel contacts. If you are handy with electronics, and the control panel seems burnt out, you can avoid buying a whole new panel by soldering new contacts in place. If you don't know what that means, you're probably not qualified to do this. That's OK. Buying a new control panel would be much easier than learning all about its electronics.

8) The control actuator and control module. These shut off water to the bottom spray arm at the end of the run. If your machine floods, you might have to spend $50 to $100 to replace these parts.

9) The heating element. This heats the water. If the water is cold, a new heating element costs about $100.

10) The timer. This controls how long the machine is on and washing your dishes. Replace it if the machine shuts off too early, too late, or not at all. It should cost under $40.

A Boiler Service Can't Be Rushed

When you get the engineer round to do a boiler service, some homeowners think that the length of time it takes is a tactical measure that will result in a higher cost for the service and parts needed. This is misconception, and the time it takes for an engineer to complete a boiler service should not be rushed on the grounds that you think it is going to cost more. After all, wouldn't you rather have a proper job done than something quick that could result in a fault being mis-diagnosed?

Avoid The Suspect Engineers

The engineers that take their time with a boiler service inevitably do a better job. They know that they have lots of areas on the boiler to check and in order to do a thorough service, time is never of the essence with a qualified engineer. In most cases, the cost of a boiler service is covered by the central heating price plan you're on, so in that respect, it doesn't really matter how long the engineer takes because you're not being charged by the hour. Of course, there are some rather suspect engineers out there that will do a boiler service for you and spend 3 hours in your home, only to tell you there is nothing wrong and you owe them hundreds of pounds for the time it has taken them to look at it. Believe it or not, there are some people out there that will try and charge a lot of money for a boiler service they are not fully qualified to do. Always choose a reputable company.

The Importance Of The Engineer

When the engineer does come round, don't rush him to complete the job. A boiler service should take on average of an hour and if it is the case that some new parts are required, you could find the central heating engineer needs to make a repeat visit. This service should be included in the central heating price plan you have, but you are likely to find that the parts aren't. Nevertheless, treat your engineer with respect as he is the one who will be identifying if you have any faults with your boiler, which could then save your life. Too many boiler explosions happen and you don't want to be another statistic. Offer the engineer a cup of tea and a biscuit whilst he is in your home, as this is always considered to be a friendly gesture.

Sink Faucets Basics

A huge variety is now seen when it comes to sinks. These sinks have been categorized for specific functions such as to be used at bars, pot and pan washing, food preparation and hand washing. Thus, making the collection of sinks more classified according to the function they would be performing. Sink faucets are an important part of any sink, which can add to the functionality of the sink to make it more useful.

Many kinds of faucets/taps are designed and available now. These too are made according to specific functions and operations. Starting off with the swivelling faucets, these are a part of every section of the sink that is used for washing of cloths. The sinks that are specifically used for hand washing can be supplied with the goose neck faucets. These sinks are spacious enough that you will hardly make any contact or touch either the sink or the faucet.

Faucets are commonly categorized into one handle faucets and two handle faucets. Both of these can be found in plenty of designs. The sinks that are used for preparing food, ware washing and hand washing, use the double handled faucets. On the other hand, one handle faucets are connected with Chinese ranges, kettles, simmering pans and other equipment. Handle free faucets have no handle. These are used to give out water for hand washing. An electric motion detector activates them. These are considered to be best when health and safety issues are of concern. With these "Handle free faucets" there are no worries regarding the transfer of germs or dirt that can occur due to the multiple contacts made with these taps by different people.

Two important fact that need to be looked at, when choosing a faucet, are the construction and configuration it. Today, brass is commonly used for the production of faucets. Brass is not only reliable but also impervious to corrosion. You will also find faucets finished in chrome, bronze, copper and nickel. These too are durable and would require relatively less care to keep them in a good condition.

You also need to make sure that the faucets go nicely with the rest of the décor of your bathroom or kitchen. You also need to keep in mind the way your sink is styled to make it best suited and useful with the faucet you will pick.

When it comes to sink faucets you will find a wide range and you can easily pick one according to your requirements. Today even taps are manufactured keeping in mind the specific action that they would be needed for. Do not rush into buying a faucet without overlooking its pros/cons, this will relive you from future plumbing problems that may happen with cheap sink faucets.

Hotels Bathtub Refinishing and Hotels Bathtub Repairs Nationwide

Hotels bathtub refinishing brings the shine back on bathtubs and sinks that are dull, worn out and hard to clean. The hospitality industry saves up to 80% of the cost of bathtub replacement. Bathtub refinishing, being done in the bathroom for about four hours, saves hotels much needed time for their guests. Green bathroom remodeling saves money because it treads lightly on the environment and leaves the hospitality industry with plenty of "green". But nobody can afford bathtubs and liners that are worn-out and discolored especially since bathtub refinishing is only 20% of the cost of bathtub replacement.

Additionally, bathtub refinishing services lowers the carbon foot print of hotels all over the world. Guests who are who conscious of green traveling are showing more preference to green hotels. There is nobody in the hospitality industry that can afford bathtubs and liners that are worn-out and discolored.

Hotels like most businesses have found ways to save money in their bathroom remodeling by using bathtub refinishing instead of bathtub replacement. And as the economy continues to tighten and the competition continues to heighten, more hotels will continue to look at creative ways to maintain their bathrooms. Bathtub refinishing leaves no mess in the bathroom. The space can be used in 12 to 24 hours depending on the coatings used and the refinishing company.

In addition, the tighter the economy, the more demanding hotel guests get for a good value for the money they spend. A sluggish economy is not the time for hotels to lower their standards but to upgrade them. Bathtub refinishing is an inexpensive way to remodel your bathroom with a savings of up to 80% of what it would cost to replace a bathtub or sink. Hotels/motels green bathtub refinishing and green bathroom remodeling is saving hotels and motels money and time nationwide.
Hotels bathtub refinishing advantages in a nutshell

* It takes about 4 hours to refinish a bathtub. It takes days and perhaps weeks to replace a bathtub.

* No removal of sink or plumbing

* No damage to their walls or cabinets.

* Save up to 80% on the cost of replacement.

* Lower their carbon foot print because refinishing is the best green remodeling alternative.

Bathtub refinishing is the best green alternative to replacing. Hotels bathtub refinishing saves money and time. In a hotel bathroom, just to replace a standard bathtub and enclosures alone, can cost over $2,000 dollars. This is because of tearing down the walls, cost of getting rid of all the mess, the plumbing and tile work. And then when you add all the money that you would loose by not having those available for your guests, the price really goes up.

With bathtub refinishing, there is no demolition and tear out, so the bathtubs are refinished in the bathroom at the hotels. Therefore, hotels get to use their almost like new bathtub after 24 hours. Additionally, since your hotels' bathtubs and wall tile fixtures, and all necessary work is done at the hotels, you get all the, bathtub refinishing benefits over replacement.
Bathtub refinishing makes hotel tubs look like new

Bathtub refinishing offers these benefits to the hospitality industry:

* Working around a hotel's constraints and scheduling;
* Working within occupancy patterns, making the process as convenient as possible.

Bathtub refinishing advantages for the hotel industry:

Bathtub refinishing has saved hotels more than 80% the cost of replacement. It has saved hotels a lot of time, which translates to money because of the quick turn-around time that only bathtub refinishing provides. Hotels that are using bathtub refinishing as a green alternative in their remodeling are lowering their hotel's carbon footprint. They also enjoy the environmental benefits of refinishing.

Bathtub refinishing helps hotels maintain a professional appearance. This satisfies their guests and also meets the lodging industry ratings requirements. Private guest rooms; meeting and conference rooms; and common areas such as the lobby, restaurant and bar, hallways and elevators need to stay clean. With bathtub refinishing, hotels certainly save money and time, and keep happy guests. In a tight economy, bathtub refinishing is the hospitality industry's best green remodeling alternative.

Everything You Need to Know About Mira Shower Spares

Making changes to our homes is something that is inevitable if you want to keep your abode pleasant and attractive. After just a few years, you will begin to notice some traces of wear and tear in your home, and if you are the kind of person who always wants to maintain the beauty and cleanliness in your surroundings, then it is recommended that you make changes to your home every once in awhile.

Are you thinking about redesigning your bathroom? The extent of the makeover would depend on your budget. If you can set aside a substantial amount for this then you can have a complete overhaul- from the shower heads, to the bath tubs, the wallpaper, the basin, the tiles, and even the toilet. However, if your budget is minimal, you can do away with the major stuff and simply change a few things like the head shower, the faucet, and maybe even add a rug and a wall frame. You do not have to spend an arm and leg on it; in fact, you can spend a little over a hundred pounds and you can change the overall look of your bathroom.

Perhaps one of the most-purchased bathroom items would be shower spares. This is because homeowners understand the value of these replacement parts; if your shower system malfunctions, you do not have to drive all the way to the store to get a replacement. You can have one or two spares ready. Additionally, when you are renovating your home, particularly your bathroom, you can always start with the basic stuff such as shower spares, particularly if you do not have a big budget for it. These items are quite inexpensive and they could do well to give your shower experience a lift. When you notice a decline in water pressure and some leaking, then perhaps it is a good time to start replacing some parts in your shower. When you are browsing online to find the perfect shower parts, you might want to start with Mira shower spares because when it comes to value for money, you cannot go wrong with this brand.

Mira Showers, a UK brand that has been around since the 1920s, is among the most popular manufacturers of shower systems today. This company has everything you need, from mixer showers, electric showers, and even digital showers. When it comes to shower systems, you can find what you are looking for from them, or their distributors.

Another reason why Mira Showers has endeared itself to people is because this company contributes to the environment by:

1. Using recycled materials

2. Following the ISO14001 guidelines

3. Manufacturing products that are energy-efficient to reduce their carbon footprint

4. Printing brochures from eco-friendly paper

Would you not be delighted to purchase products made by a company that takes part in environmental protection? Of course you would, and this is also one of the reasons why Mira Showers has retained its popularity all these years. Take a look at Mira shower spares if you are looking for excellent quality replacement parts to fix your bathroom shower.

Small Bathroom Remodeling in a 1920s Home

Our son James was in Florida visiting some friends and was asked to look at a toilet in a home built in the 1920s. There was something wrong with the toilet as it wobbled. After looking at the bathroom, all 30 square feet of it (5ft X 6ft), he determined the floor under the toilet was gone. Apparently water had been leaking for several years under the ceramic floor tile rotting the sub floor wood and the floor joists away. The only thing holding the toilet in place was the front of the toilet and the toilet bowl leaning against the wall.

When James removed the flooring and discovered what was going to be involved, it was decided that he would remodel the bathroom by removing the almost useless pentagon shaped shower (less than 2ft across) and relocating the toilet to the other side of the room.

The original configuration was such that the toilet was under the stairs and there was very little headroom. Some additional easy cleaning options were desired and incorporated. A floor drain was added as this room is near a pool. New easy to clean ceramic floor tile was installed and he installed a pedestal sink and a new elongated bowl toilet.

Demolition of the floor confirmed that the floor needed some extensive repairs. There was just enough room to add the new plumbing. The cast iron pipe with lead sleeves was removed and PVC was installed. Copper was installed for all the supply lines.

The existing walls were plastered using techniques of the 1920s and were several inches thick, not to mention very heavy. James decided not to remove any unnecessary material and re-plaster any areas that needed to be repaired. Saving time and money.

The damaged floor joists were repaired using pressure treated wood to help ensure no future damage would occur. New 3/4 inch plywood covered the floor joists and 1/2 inch Hardiboard covered the plywood. The Hardiboard will keep the floor from flexing and keep the ceramic tile from cracking. This was very important as he was using 16 inch ceramic tiles.

After the floor was installed, the walls were leveled with new stucco. Then floor tile was installed. A economical way to do the floor tile edging is to cut 4 inches off the side of the 16 inch tile and use it for the baseboard. This way the finished edge shows and the cut edge is hidden.

Since this was a very small bathroom remodel, the waste is of little concern. James placed the floor tile and then the baseboard. The sink and the toilet were installed next. He grouted the finished floor with un-sanded grout. Then he saved some grout to go under the toilet and the pedestal sink.

NEVER use caulk or plaster around the toilet and pedestal sink as these materials break down over time.

The final finish would be applied after the plaster dried. Depending upon thickness, it may take several days for everything to dry. Then all the homeowner needs to do is paint.

Garbage Disposal - Ways to Keep Your Kitchen Tidy!

As you know that kitchen plays an important part for everyone in the house. Most of the people consider it a central room as compare to other rooms because kitchen is the only place in the whole house where whole family members gather or spend time together while eating. Apart from this eating aspect, kitchen is the busiest and occupied room in the house. Usually mothers are always found in kitchens doing some cooking or baking. Therefore, you can say that this is the place which you should try to keep clean and tidy.

It has been noticed that, after using different sauces and other eatables products the kitchen sometimes produces quite irritating odors. So, to keep this place clean, experts suggest, taking proper measures for the disposal of garbage can be a good option to avoid such problems. Most of the times, the irritating smell in kitchen is produced due to the garbage in the garbage basket. To avoid this, I will suggest you to put the garbage basket out side the house near the window of the kitchen.

Below, some vital points are given that can play a vital role to clean your garbage basket properly. By following these techniques, you can get rid of unlikeable scent of kitchen, bacteria and other insects.

The first method to apply is pouring of 1-2 cups of baking soda down in the kitchen drain. After this, use vinegar to kill all the germs and other insects. Do not wash way the mixture of vinegar and baking soda for almost half an hour. Now, boil some water and wash away the mixture in drain. This technique is quite helpful to get rid of all the germs and bacteria.

After this step, you can also use some ice cubes on the drain to reduce any kind of bad irritating odor. I am sure that above mentioned small technique is quite significant for garbage disposal. You can also logon to the site given below for further details on garbage disposal.

Rehabs, Renovations & Remodels - Fundamentals in Estimating Repair Costs

Estimating repairs: The silent assassin on your project. Whether you are a full time investor/rehabber, wholesaler or contractor It REALLY can be the single most important factor in determining your bottom line. It is just as important as calculating the after repair value, or ARV, of the property prior to making your decision to purchase. It will affect your bottom line in a way that if you OVERESTIMATE, it might cause you to pass on a worthy deal. If you are a wholesaler or contractor, you might just estimate yourself right out of a deal. On the other hand, if you UNDERESTIMATE, people will feel you might be hiding some things just to move a property, you are cutting corners, or you might be trying to make chicken salad out of chicken@$#%! Either way, NOBODY WINS!

Unless you already are a contractor, you should never commit to hiring one UNLESS you have a written estimate from one PRIOR to starting on your project. This holds true whether you are seasoned or a newbie. EVERYONE calculates their repair estimates differently. There are several reasons for this but two of the most important ones are: 1) exit strategy on the property and 2) doing the work yourself vs. subcontracting the work out. I feel it is best to give ranges-REALISTIC RANGES. I use plus or minus 10%-20%and then validate the reasons for this range. Example: if you calculate a repair cost of $10,000 the range might be + or - 15%. Therefore, your estimate range would be from $8,500-$11,500. Reasons for these differences could be for a rental property vs. retail sale. As an investor, contractor GOOD ACCURATE estimates will establish credibility with your peers in the industry and most importantly will create an opportunity to see black instead of red.

If you do not know what your are looking at ABOVE ANYTHING-DO NOT GUESS!!! It will kill your credibility with other investors as well as your profit potential. I can not repeat this enough, but I will anyway: DO NOT GUESS your repair costs. You will not last very long in the business, I can assure you of that. Bring along an experienced friend/subcontractor/rehabber with you. Do not be afraid to ask someone. It is WELL WORTH IT! You might have to take someone out to lunch, buy them a few beers or even get them a gift card from the Home Depot or Lowe's. These things are really more for their time. It does go a long way. Many people will be happy & honored that you trusted them enough to bring them along to share their "expertise." Even if you had to pay someone to give you an estimate if it were in your budget, the money you spend on doing so could potentially save you from disaster.

You could ask a contractor to give you a bid on it or you might decide to hire a home inspector to do the estimated work needed to be done, or will need to do both. It might cost you anywhere from $100-$450 to do this. Some charge by the hour, but most will charge you by the job. They will generally spend anywhere from a couple of hours to as much as a full day to inspect the property. Many home inspectors do their work for people wanting or needing to get financing for their purchase & the lenders are more stringent on their loan requirements these days. It could be a very different situation for someone wanting to buy with cash. Accuracy IS important, but having too many repair costs might kill your deal and might not necessarily create additional value to your investment so: KNOW YOUR AREA AND FOCUS ON THE EXIT STRATEGY.

Here is the big one that usually NO ONE wants to be associated with: STRUCTURAL REPAIRS. While structural repairs can be daunting, they can also be tamed just like any big beast. You just have to confront it head on. Some people run for the hills. I personally have no concerns about these types of properties because many times these have the biggest profits potential. This one truly depends on your tolerance for risk, BUT if you do your homework these could yield the greatest reward.

In my opinion, here are the most important ones to look out for: 1) ROOF/RAFTERS/TRUSSES- checked for "cupped shingles", excess discoloration, humps in the roof lines. Newer shingles will have more "grittiness" to them, whereas older shingles will look much smoother. 2) FOUNDATION- This one is the LYNCH PIN of the entire project. If your foundation is bad, whether a concrete slab or frame foundation, the chances are so is most of the rest of the house. They could easily account for the majority of the costs. I have seen projects COMPLETELY run out of money just from the aftermath of foundational repairs. 3) TERMITES- Yes, I said termites! So easily & frequently missed, but SO destructive. A couple of very critical things to look for: tiny wings, tiny eggs (kind of look like really small chocolate sprinkles) and "pop-outs." These are pin-hole sized openings in the walls or ceilings that, unless you got a really up-close look, you might think they were just air bubbles left behind on the walls from the paint or even the drywall finishers.

Another essential piece to estimating your repair costs are the non-structural issues. Some of these issues MIGHT be very well caused by the structural issues, although you might not make a connection from one to the other. The prime example here would be water/moisture intrusion. It is also responsible for many of the dollars spent on your project. One of the biggest challenges you might have with water/moisture intrusion is that where it is coming out of often times is not the location where it is coming in from. Water travels the path of least resistance, so you might see water coming from one side of the house, but it could easily have originated from the other. The worst part: YOU MIGHT NEVER FIND IT, especially if you dont know where to begin to look. Some things to look for are bubbles, peeling paint, rust stains on the walls or ceilings.

These specific indicators are usually dead giveaways for water/moisture intrusion. Also, things like bowed wood trim or separating from the walls (door casings), floors (baseboards), ceiling (crown molding) are all signs that there might be an issue. Wood floors that are either cupped or have many small gaps between the planks are also signs. REMEMBER one very important indicator of moisture & wood: Wood is like a sponge in that is absorbs moisture. Also, like a sponge, wood will shrink as it drys out, leaving behind gaps and separations. Over time, this intrusion could lead to mold/mildew challenges, which are not cheap either.

Other interior issues to look out for are the "Big 3"- Electrical, plumbing & mechanical (HVAC). Check all switches in the house & the main electrical panel thoroughly. Make sure your existing electrical service will support any electrical upgrades you plan on doing to the house. For the plumbing, turn on all water faucets in the house, including showers, sinks, dish washer, and washing machine. Look at not only the water pressure but the water volume. It is also a good idea to flush the toilets at the same time. Not that all of this would ever happen at one time, but it creates a good indicator at the quality of the plumbing throughout the house. Also, check your exterior sewer water and/or septic connections. As far as the HVAC goes, is the air handler in the attic, or in a closet or garage? If it is in the attic, it will create a greater potential for damage if the system ever backs up and leaks. Check all dampers and determine if there is proper air flow, especially in the farthest room located away from the main air handler unit. Low air volume might mean the unit is not large enough to cool or heat the entire house or the trunk lines have a leak in them. Either way, it could be an additional cost not planned for.

Last but certainly not least is the exterior curb appeal of the property. This should actually be the first thing to be done & generates one of the highest returns on your investment. A clean looking yard will yield more interest from prospective buyers than a ratty looking one. PERIOD. Regardless of what the interior looks like in the beginning of your rehab project, if your exit strategy is to sell the house right after finishing the work the whole idea is to get people to stop by & check it out. As many as possible! You could have a beautiful looking interior but no one would would really ever know if they see a nasty looking exterior. The perception alone would many times keep interested parties from stopping by. Most yard cleanups could be done pretty inexpensively and take a couple of days at the most. Remember, we are not looking for an immaculate yard right now, but one that says: "Hey! there IS a house there behind all of those weeds!"

In conclusion, you must either get really, really good at estimating these repair costs yourself OR have someone on your team that is. Having very good and trustworthy contractors are like having a great mechanic. It will go much farther than you could imagine. You must do everything possible going into a project knowing what your maximum allowable budget is, and STICK TO IT. Just as a side note, whether you have experience or not, there should ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be a "Fudge Fund" set aside for underestimated or unforeseen costs. Believe me, you will thank yourself for this!

Differences of as little as a couple thousand dollars in overestimating or underestimating your project could be the difference in your investments moving like hot potatoes or sitting growing hair on the shelves. Be wise, be diligent, be thorough and above all, be involved in this part of your project.

Here are the top 10 repairs/updates on your home that will generally yield the highest returns:

1) Minor bathroom remodels
2) Landscaping
3) Minor kitchen remodels
4) Clean looking exterior of the property ( pressure washing, painting, etc..)
5) Adding/conversion of existing space to an extra bedroom
6) Major bathroom renovation
7) Major kitchen update
8) Addition of a covered porch/patio
9) Installing of newer energy efficient windows
10) Enlarging the family/living room.

Water Pressure - What Is Right For Your Home?

When it comes to water pressure, what one person thinks is adequate might come across as a trickle to another. Because opinions vary widely, it is important to be able to make a determination of the adequacy of water pressure in some definitive way. That is especially true for a working home inspector. If a client asks why the inspector did not comment on high or low water pressure, then having a normal water pressure reading documented on the report is a good idea.

Water pressure gauges are easy to use practical tools and, certainly, not out of the reach of the homeowner in either cost or the expertise required to operate them correctly. In fact, these gauges can be purchased at any good hardware store for about $10.00. Once you have the device, you might wonder what readings you are looking for? Well, normal pressure is described as being between 40 and 80 PSI (pounds per square inch). The easiest place to check that reading is to screw the gauge on at an outside faucet. Beware, there can be a potential snag doing that: Not often, but sometimes, the hosebibb or faucet is plumbed in before a pressure reducer is put in the system and, in that case, there will be a high reading on the gauge. For this reason, when a hosebibb gives a high reading, a person should try to get another reading, such as attaching the gauge to the faucet the washing machine connects to. The washing machine faucet is usually inside the home, or so we hope, and has the same threads as the pressure gauge. If the reading is still high, then the problem is confirmed since the washing machine is one of the appliances we are trying to protect from damage caused by high water pressure.

As an aside, it is my opinion, having inspected many homes and then checked the water flow, that any reading under 50 PSI is suspect and the people who are going to live in the house ought to see for themselves if they like the water pressure. If a person buying a house does not have a pressure gauge, or wonders if he or she will be satisfied with the water pressure, I suggest the good old-fashioned multi-flow test. It is simple enough. Get the dishwasher or washing machine running. Then turn on a sink or two and go to a bathroom and try the shower, the sink, etc. Do this on each floor, with other fixtures running. You can get a pretty good idea of the adequacy of the water pressure and how it will affect you.

As far as solutions to a pressure issue: If the pressure is too high, a pressure reducer will probably be installed by a plumber. If, on the other hand, the water pressure is too low then that will be more complicated. The cause can range from bad pressure at the source, to rusted pipes and a number of other issues.

Faucet Repair

Faucets have internal parts that eventually wear out. The first to go are the washers and o-rings, then the seats, and then possibly the stem. As these parts wear you will start to get leaking from your faucet. The leaks could come from the spout and drip into the sink, or you could get leaking from the handle(s) and have water running on to your counter or under the counter. Just before we get into repairing your faucet let's consider a couple of things.

For you water conservationalists its out there did you know that 1 drop of water per second equals about 2,500 gallons of water per year? And most people that I have repaired faucets for wait until there faucet is leaking about 6-10 drips per second. That is about 12,500 to 25,000 gallons of water per year. That's $80 to $140 per year. Plus most of your leaks will start on the hot side way before the cold, since the hot water will deteriorate the rubber in the valves much quicker. So with the way energy costs are today you can add 30% to 60% to those costs.

If your bathroom faucet is 10 years old or older you may wish to change the faucet out with a new one. I definitely recommend doing this. The reason I believe you should do this is that the labor for repairing the faucet and the labor for replacing the faucet are fairly close to the same. And the parts for repairing the faucet will be around $35.00. A new faucet will cost you around $75.00. So for only an extra $40.00 you will have a nice new faucet to brighten up your bathroom.

With your kitchen faucet the price difference can be much more significant. In either case you will need to make a decision that fits your situation the best.

Now with the bath tub or shower faucets, since the valve is behind the wall, then I recommend repairing the leak. The best time to replace a bath tub or shower faucet is during renovations. It is possible for you to replace sooner if you have enough access to the faucet from the back. So you could replace with a similar faucet or there is a flange made by delta that will cover holes left from a two or three handle faucet when you install a single lever faucet.
Faucet styles

This is an absolutely huge area. There is literally thousands of different faucets and models of faucets over the last 30 years.

A short list of the more common styles are:

Two handle bathroom, kitchen, bathtub or shower faucets with seats and washers

Two handle washerless bathroom, kitchen, bath tub or shower faucets

Three handle bath/shower faucets with seats and washers

(these will have a hot and cold tap as well as a control for the bath/shower)

Single lever bath/shower faucets with cartridge

Single lever kitchen faucets with pull-out head and cartridge

Single lever kitchen and bathroom faucets with rubber seats and ball control

The reason I say short list is because each of the above can have many different variations. There are dozens of different seats, washers, and cartridges. Because there is so many different styles and variations the time to make the repair can become longer because quite often you will need to go to a specialty shop to match the parts with the parts you removed. So you can understand that if you are paying a plumber $75.00 per hour (that is the going rate here) the replacement of the faucet may be cheaper than the repair of the faucet.

Now on to the faucet repair job

Each type of faucet will have a similar repair procedure. I suggest putting the parts in order on the counter beside you as you pull them out so that you know exactly how to put them back again.

1. Turn off the water.

2. Pry off the handle screw cover.

3. Take the screw out of the handle

4. Remove handle (you may need handle pullers to do this)

5. Remove escusion if there is one (usually on two handle bath tubs and showers)

6. Loosen off the holding nut (in single lever bathtub showers there is a holding ring)

7. Remove the stem (cartridge in single lever bath/showers)

8. Check the brass seats for cuts (use your baby fingernail or flashlight)

(remove rubber seats if you have a washerless faucets)

9. Replace brass seats if necessary (the seats might be chrome as well)

10. Replace the washer (replace the cartridge in single levers)

11. If need be replace the stem.

12. Put back together

13. Check for leaks.

Congratulations! You just saved yourself $100-$200 repairing your own faucet

Bathtub Faucet Repair Tips and Techniques

Did you know that you can fix a leaking shower faucet and save hundreds of gallons of water a year? Most people just think of a dripping faucet as an annoyance and don't realize how much precious water is being wasted one drop at a time. The good news is that almost anyone with a few basic hand tools can learn how to fix most dripping faucets.

Let's start with the basics. Faucets have one primary purpose, to allow the water in your pipes to be used in a controlled manner. This means that they have to open to allow water out of the pipes and close to keep water in the pipes. Not rocket science, right? The closing part is what we want to concentrate on here.

There Are Two Basic Faucet Designs

Faucets drip when they fail to completely trap the water in the pipes. Most faucets use one of two basic methods to stop the water flow. Some, primarily older designs, use rubber or neoprene washers which tighten against a "seat" and block the flow of water. Drips from these faucets are addressed by replacing the washers and/or seats. We'll talk about how to do that in a minute. Most other faucet designs involve some sort of cartridge. Some people call these "washerless" faucets. Repairing newer style water faucets like these usually involves replacing the cartridge(s).

Washers And Seats

Older faucet designs often use washers to block the water and keep it in the pipes. Tightening the handle compresses the washer against a "seat" and seals the opening, thus stopping the water flow. If you need to do a bathtub faucet repair on a three handle wall faucet you probably have this type. You will also run into this style if you need to fix a leaking shower faucet hat has two handles. Many sink and lavatory faucets also use washers. One way to tell whether or not your faucets use washers is to see if the handle gets harder to turn as you turn it off. If turning it really tight stops the drip, this probably, but not always, means that you have washers. If you do have a dripping faucet that has washers, the basic repair process is very similar whether you need to know how to repair a shower faucet,repair a leaking tub faucet or fix a dripping sink faucet. There is, however, one important difference.

Bathtub Faucet Repair

The one critical thing to remember when fixing a leaky bathtub faucet is that you will have to turn the water off to the entire house before removing any parts other than the outer trim pieces. If you're not sure which pieces are trim, just turn the water off first just in case. Once you have turned off the main water to the house you can begin taking things apart. There are lots of different brands and designs of faucets out there and they all come apart a little differently, so you will have to sort of feel your way through.

Removing The Trim

The first step is to remove the handles. This is usually done by removing a cap to expose the handle screw and then removing the screw. Next, remove the handle. This may require a little finesse, as the handles sometimes get stuck in place. One trick is to place the handles of a pair of channel lock pliers behind the valve handle, one on each side, and tap evenly on the handle to nudge it loose. If this doesn't work you can buy a special tool to remove handles but these tools are sometimes hard to find and usually a little patience is all you need to do the trick.

After he handles are off, there is usually some sort of sleeve over the stem itself. This typically has to come off too. Once again, there are many different configurations. One popular design uses threaded plastic tubes to connect the trim sleeve with the valve. Other types have the sleeve threaded directly onto the valve. You will have to figure this step out before you can proceed. If you can determine what brand valve you have there is a good chance of finding instructions on-line.

Now For The Root Of The Problem

OK, so you have removed both the handles and any remaining trim sleeve from the valve. Now you are ready to get to the root of the problem, your valve stem. The washer is almost always at the other end of the valve stem from the handle. Usually the stem is threaded into the valve body and you will just need to unscrew it to remove it. Here's a tip. Stick the handle back on for a second and open the valve half way. This relieves pressure on the stem and makes it easier to unscrew. Now you just need to make sure you are loosening the correct nut.

Lots of valves have a packing nut around the stem. It is usually a little smaller and just in front of the actual connection with the valve body. The packing nut's purpose is to squeeze some special packing material around the stem to prevent water from leaking around the stem when the valve is in use. Loosening the packing nut won't help you, you need to get your wrench on the actual connection to the valve body. By the way, a deep socket is often the only tool that will work to remove the valve stem.

Removing The Valve Stem

The easiest way to make sure you have the correct nut is to see if there is a gap opening up between the nut and the valve body as you loosen the nut. The valve stem itself will also usually turn when you have the right one. If you have loosened the packing nut by mistake, don't worry, you will adjust it before you are finished anyway. Go ahead and remove both stems and keep up with which one is which, it matters on many valves.

After you have the stems out you should be able to find the washer on the "inside" end. If it is nicked, torn or brittle it is likely the cause of your drip. Even if it looks brand new, go ahead and replace it. You've already come this far. You can get replacement washers at almost any hardware store. Sometimes you may want to replace the whole stem, especially if the handle end is stripped out. It's best to just take the stem with you to the store and see if you can match it up. Most Do It Yourself stores have replacement stems for many popular brands. If your valve has a center diverter valve to switch the waterfrom the tub spout to the shower head the same process applies. Many times it is easier to replace the diverter stem than to repair it. This really depends on the design of the stem.

How Are Your Seats?

One more thing to check is the seats. These are the part of the valve body that the washer tightens up against to stop the water flow. If you can get your finger inside the valve, feel of the seats and see if they feel rough. If so, it would be best to replace them if you can get them out. The inside of the seats, which is where the water flows through when the valve is open, usually have either a hex or square recess. Special seat wrenches are used to remove the seats. You can usually get these wrenches at the same place you get the other parts and they're not expensive. You just stick the wrench through the seat and unscrew it. The replacement seats screw back in the same way, just put a little pipe dope on the threads before you install it.

Put It All Back Together

Once you've figured out what needs to be replaced and have done that, you just need to put everything back together. If your valve has packing nuts don't put the trim back on until you have turned the water back on. Once the water is on, go ahead and stick the handle on for a second and open the valve. Make sure no water is leaking around the stem. If it is leaking, with the handle opened half way, snug down the packing nut until the leak stops. Easy does it. If you get it too tight the handle will be hard to turn. Now finish installing the trim pieces and you are done.

Repairing Newer Style Water Faucets

If you have a newer, "washerless" type valve the repair process is similar, but usually easier. Many of these type valves use a self contained cartridge. If the valve starts to drip, just replace the cartridge and you're done. You still need to turn the water off and remove the handles and trim. The cartridge is usually held in place by a retaining nut on the valve body or, in the case of most Moen valves, by a retaining clip. Simply remove the cartridge and put another one in it's place. If your hot and cold are backwards when you finish, turn the water back off, pull the cartridge back out, turn it over 180 degrees and re-install it.

Delta Style Valves

One other common design that is considered "washerless" was made famous by Delta and copied by several other makers. It uses little "cup" seals that fit over springs recessed in the back of the valve body. The springs press these "seals" against the cartridge and regulate the flow through little tapered openings in the cartridge. If you have one of these and it's dripping, changing these springs and seals will usually correct it. Here's a tip. Once you have the cartridge out of the way, insert a phillips screwdriver into the seal and pop both the seal and spring out. Stick the new ones on the end of the screwdriver to help guide them into place. This is especially helpful if you don't have long slender fingers.

Delta, and a few imitators, also have a faucet design that uses a ball instead of a cartridge. This is not as common in tub or shower valves but there are plenty of them out there. The springs and seals are the same but there are lots more o-rings an parts to deal with. The good news is that these parts are readily available. While it's a little more complicated than learning how to repair a Moen kitchen faucet, which is a piece of cake, it is still easier than working with most washer type faucets.

These Techniques Work In The Kitchen Too

Armed with the knowledge you've gained in this article you now not only know how to repair a shower faucet and to repair a leaking tub faucet, but you can apply these skills to many other faucets as well. After fixing a leaky bathtub faucet, stopping a dripping outside hose faucet will be a breeze. The techniques that you will use to complete a "washerless" bathtub faucet repair can be used when repairing newer style water faucets of all kinds. Whether you have an old dripping tub faucet or a newer kitchen faucet that just won't quite shut off you can now fix it. So put these new skills to use, roll up your sleeves and stop that drip!

Copyright 2008 Bryan Stevens

Toilet Parts

The parts of a toilet include internal parts (filler valve, filler float, overflow tube, flush valve, siphon tube) and external parts (handle, tank, rim, bowl). While internal toilet parts create the siphon that makes a toilet work, the external toilet parts have a role as well beyond that of comfort and appearance.

Toilets flush when enough water is pushed into the siphon tube that it fills up. This amount of water causes the siphon action that sucks the water from the toilet bowl. The siphon process ends when the toilet bowl is empty and there is nothing left to pull.

What turns a primitive toilet bowl with a siphon into the common household toilet is the tank. Small amounts of water are not enough to cause the flush reaction because there is not enough water to fill the siphon tube. If there is not enough water in the tank, the siphon won't work, so the tank stores several gallons of water at a time and refills quickly. These several gallons of water are what make all the other toilet parts work together to create the siphon. The handle of the toilet is attached to the flush valve that acts as a plug in the tank. When the handle is pushed, the valve lifts and all the tank's water pours out into the bowl and down the siphon tube, filling it and causing the siphon to start. The other toilet part that is included in this process is the overflow tube. When the flush valve lifts, some of the tank water is siphoned up the overflow tube and directed to the bowl, to starts slowly refilling it. When the handle is released, the flush valve settles back into place and plugs the tank again.

To refill the tank and the bowl, the rest of the toilet parts mentioned above come into play. The filler float floats in the tank water and is attached to the filler valve. When the toilet's handle is pushed and the water leaves the tank, the float drops with the water level and, when it does, the filler valve is opened. While the toilet flushes, the refill valve starts slowly refilling the tank. Once the water level in the tank floats the filler float back to the top, the valve is shut off and the water stops running.

Choosing a Handicapped Bathtub

Like any other products and facilities, it is always a question of convenience. Some products even make bathing so easy that a disabled person can do the task all by himself. Considering that a person with certain limitations in movement may find it difficult to bathe, your handicapped bathtubs must have what it takes to make life easier.

The idea of using handicapped tubs is to provide ease in bathing for a person having difficulties in movement. The limitations in movement may cause danger especially when one is submerged in water. A slippery area may also cause harm for a person who has physical disability.

Handicap tubs are very convenient to use. Some products even make it possible for a person with limited mobility to bathe without the need for support from another person. A tub may come in many shapes and sized. Some are elevated, some have doors and some even make it possible for a person to get inside a tub without the need to get off a wheelchair.

People with physical disability are very prone to accidents. The continuous use of a handicapped bathtub can be dangerous if your tub has low quality materials and does not have much of the features needed to make bathing more convenient for a person who is disabled.

So what do you need to look for in a handicap tub? Some of the things that you need to find in these types of bath tub are illustrated below. Making sure that your handicapped bathtub has these, will ensure that your loved one will not get harmed even when no one is attending to him or her while bathing.

The built of your bath tub may vary. It is best to make sure that your handicapped bathtub has fiberglass reinforcement. This will ensure that certain features in the texture of the tub will be suitable for the care of people with physical disability. If a disabled person is confined in a wheelchair, certain surfaces may add to irritations at the lower parts of their body and their lower back. Making sure that your tub at least has fiberglass reinforcements will give a person added comfort while bathing.

No matter how supportive the contours are on your handicap tubs, it is best to make sure that it has supportive handicap bars that are easy to reach in any position. There should always be bars near the seat, on top of the arm rest and a vertical bar to support standing positions. Handles should always be either stainless steel or made of materials that are not harmful.

Your handicapped bathtubs should always have a rubber pillow to avoid slipping. It is very possible for a person with severe physical disability to slip down to submerged parts of the bath tub. Having a rubber pillow will give added support while sitting down on a walk-in handicapped bath tub.

The water spouts should never have sharp edges and any metal part of a handicapped bathtub should always be far from the main tub. Showers should always support sitting and standing positions and the water switches should always be within reach.

Best Sump Pump - Submersible Or Pedestal?

What are the differences between the submersible and pedestal sump pumps?

Placement: A submersible is designed to be placed in a sump pit and submerged in water. The pedestal is designed so the pump sits in the sump pit, but the motor sits outside the pit. The motor should not get wet.

Stability: The submersible pump is placed on the bottom of the sump pit so it is very stable. On the other hand the other type has the pump on the bottom of the pit, but the motor is outside the pit. A brace attached to the motor is required to make it stable.

Float-switch: The submersible sump has one of four types of float/switches: Tether floats hang freely from the side of the pump and float when the water around the pump raises. Vertical floats have a ball that moves up and down on a vertical rod with only a slight movement. A diaphragm, which is a membrane located on a drum shaped mechanism, becomes concave with increased water pressure which activates the pump. A probe controlled by a microprocessor which senses water pressure and activates the pump. The pedestal has a tether float

Sentry light signal: A submersible sump pump operating with a probe is the only float-switch mechanism that lets the owner know if it is operating properly when not running. The pedestal pump has a visible sentry light that indicates if it is operating.

Ease of replacing faulty float-switch: A submersible with a failed float, vertical switch attached to the pump or a diaphragm requires removal of the pump from the pit for replacement. A pedestal float mechanism is attached to the motor which is outside the pit so does not require removal of the pump from the pit.

Noise level and safety: A submersible sump is quieter because it sits in the pit. The pit and water reduce the noise. A submersible pump is also safer because it is in the pit. Children cannot touch any part of the pump unless the sump pit cover is not in place. The occurrence of an electrical problem is more likely to happen to the submersible pump since it is in the water, however such problems rarely occur.

Life span and cost: The pedestal pump has a longer life span. Water does take its toll on a submersible pump. Pedestals are known to last 2 to 5 times longer and are cheaper than submersible pumps.

Handling of debris: The submersible is built to handle small solids since it comes with a screen over the face of the pump preventing debris to be sucked up into the impeller. The pedestal style has a hose or pipe that reaches down into the bottom of the pit and sucks up anything in its surroundings.

Which of the two types is best for you? The following questions are designed to help you in your decision process to select the pump that is best for you.

Are you concerned about pumping capacity and stability? A submersible handles greater volumes of water and is more stable.

Are you concerned about cost? A pedestal is cheaper.

Are you concerned about safety and the noise level? A pedestal is noisy and is not recommended for use where children or pets exist and for basements that are used for family living.

Are there small particles in your sump pit water? A pedestal pump is not built to handle solids or particles.

Are you looking for a pump where you can replace the float-switch without having to remove the pump from the sump pit? Few submersible pumps have a float cage that is external to the pump. The pedestal sump pump float-switch maintenance is outside the pit.

What are your concerns? The above information has been provided to help you make the right decision for your situation.

Replacing a Shower Tub Faucet? Tips You'll Be Glad You Saw

Is the constant drip from the shower annoying you at night? Fix it. Replacing shower tub faucets is easy with the tips given below.

o The faucets come in various styles and sizes. The old ones used to have washers and newer ones have cartridges in them which control hot and cold water. If there is a leak it will be due to these. They start leaking or dripping when washers become stiff and corroded. Water pressure also hastens this process.
o So when you remove these take the faucets to the hardware store and get them replaced according to the correct size. Take an exact centre to centre measurement.
o Keep the correct tools with you. Basically you require two pipe wrenches one for holding and another for turning. For square or hex nuts open end wrenches are ideal as they have smooth jaws. If the pipe is of small diameter then you need to have vise grip wrench.
o While soldering be careful. Too much heat can damage the faucet body.
o Keep a pile of rags and water with you. While soldering keep a wet rag on opposite side of faucet. This will keep the faucet cool while soldering.
o After soldering wipe joint with a clean cloth to remove debris and flux.
o Flush the water line by removing the cartridge.
o When you buy a new faucet keep the manufacturer's instruction sheet with you. They will come in handy during repairs. Also keep spare parts in a safe place.
o Always plan for an access wall on the opposite side of the wall behind the shower faucet.

While replacing the washer or cartridge remember

o Turn the water supply off.
o remove the faucet handle
o Remove the faucet assembly consisting of the trim and the stem assembly.
o Take the washer and the stem for replacement.
o Grease the threads and washer and assemble it all back.

Now just turn on the water supply and check if your do it yourself has worked. Good luck.