Essential Dishwasher Parts

You may need to replace dishwasher parts from time to time. Call or visit your local appliance parts outlet. There you will find a full selection of dishwasher parts you can buy to self-service your dishwasher. Some examples of commonly replaced parts are:

1) The drain hose. These are necessary for draining the machine back into the plumbing of your home. This hose can crack, tear, or become weak. You can replace it yourself for under $20.

2) Switches and latches. Door switches, selector switches, handle latches, knobs, and other switches can break off from time to time. These are usually available for under $20 each.

3) The air gap. This prevents waste from seeping back into the unit. It is located in the sink, near the faucet. If you've already tried unscrewing and cleaning the air gap, a new one can be had for under $15.

4) Dishwasher rack plastic repair material. If any parts of the two or three racks in your dishwasher break off, apply some of this glue-like material and stick the part back on. It costs around $20 or $30 a bottle. It's powerful stuff.

5) The complete pump and motor assembly. Motors and pumps can sometimes break down. Unfortunately, they cost anywhere from $100 to $200. Be sure to try and self-start the stuck motor by manually spinning it before you go and buy a new one.

6) Push-button control panels. These can short out, sometimes causing an alarming cloud of smoke. If you ever experience this, disconnect the power, pull the unit away from the wall if you can, and get a new push-button control panel for about $100.

7) Internal control panel contacts. If you are handy with electronics, and the control panel seems burnt out, you can avoid buying a whole new panel by soldering new contacts in place. If you don't know what that means, you're probably not qualified to do this. That's OK. Buying a new control panel would be much easier than learning all about its electronics.

8) The control actuator and control module. These shut off water to the bottom spray arm at the end of the run. If your machine floods, you might have to spend $50 to $100 to replace these parts.

9) The heating element. This heats the water. If the water is cold, a new heating element costs about $100.

10) The timer. This controls how long the machine is on and washing your dishes. Replace it if the machine shuts off too early, too late, or not at all. It should cost under $40.

A Boiler Service Can't Be Rushed

When you get the engineer round to do a boiler service, some homeowners think that the length of time it takes is a tactical measure that will result in a higher cost for the service and parts needed. This is misconception, and the time it takes for an engineer to complete a boiler service should not be rushed on the grounds that you think it is going to cost more. After all, wouldn't you rather have a proper job done than something quick that could result in a fault being mis-diagnosed?

Avoid The Suspect Engineers

The engineers that take their time with a boiler service inevitably do a better job. They know that they have lots of areas on the boiler to check and in order to do a thorough service, time is never of the essence with a qualified engineer. In most cases, the cost of a boiler service is covered by the central heating price plan you're on, so in that respect, it doesn't really matter how long the engineer takes because you're not being charged by the hour. Of course, there are some rather suspect engineers out there that will do a boiler service for you and spend 3 hours in your home, only to tell you there is nothing wrong and you owe them hundreds of pounds for the time it has taken them to look at it. Believe it or not, there are some people out there that will try and charge a lot of money for a boiler service they are not fully qualified to do. Always choose a reputable company.

The Importance Of The Engineer

When the engineer does come round, don't rush him to complete the job. A boiler service should take on average of an hour and if it is the case that some new parts are required, you could find the central heating engineer needs to make a repeat visit. This service should be included in the central heating price plan you have, but you are likely to find that the parts aren't. Nevertheless, treat your engineer with respect as he is the one who will be identifying if you have any faults with your boiler, which could then save your life. Too many boiler explosions happen and you don't want to be another statistic. Offer the engineer a cup of tea and a biscuit whilst he is in your home, as this is always considered to be a friendly gesture.

Sink Faucets Basics

A huge variety is now seen when it comes to sinks. These sinks have been categorized for specific functions such as to be used at bars, pot and pan washing, food preparation and hand washing. Thus, making the collection of sinks more classified according to the function they would be performing. Sink faucets are an important part of any sink, which can add to the functionality of the sink to make it more useful.

Many kinds of faucets/taps are designed and available now. These too are made according to specific functions and operations. Starting off with the swivelling faucets, these are a part of every section of the sink that is used for washing of cloths. The sinks that are specifically used for hand washing can be supplied with the goose neck faucets. These sinks are spacious enough that you will hardly make any contact or touch either the sink or the faucet.

Faucets are commonly categorized into one handle faucets and two handle faucets. Both of these can be found in plenty of designs. The sinks that are used for preparing food, ware washing and hand washing, use the double handled faucets. On the other hand, one handle faucets are connected with Chinese ranges, kettles, simmering pans and other equipment. Handle free faucets have no handle. These are used to give out water for hand washing. An electric motion detector activates them. These are considered to be best when health and safety issues are of concern. With these "Handle free faucets" there are no worries regarding the transfer of germs or dirt that can occur due to the multiple contacts made with these taps by different people.

Two important fact that need to be looked at, when choosing a faucet, are the construction and configuration it. Today, brass is commonly used for the production of faucets. Brass is not only reliable but also impervious to corrosion. You will also find faucets finished in chrome, bronze, copper and nickel. These too are durable and would require relatively less care to keep them in a good condition.

You also need to make sure that the faucets go nicely with the rest of the décor of your bathroom or kitchen. You also need to keep in mind the way your sink is styled to make it best suited and useful with the faucet you will pick.

When it comes to sink faucets you will find a wide range and you can easily pick one according to your requirements. Today even taps are manufactured keeping in mind the specific action that they would be needed for. Do not rush into buying a faucet without overlooking its pros/cons, this will relive you from future plumbing problems that may happen with cheap sink faucets.

Hotels Bathtub Refinishing and Hotels Bathtub Repairs Nationwide

Hotels bathtub refinishing brings the shine back on bathtubs and sinks that are dull, worn out and hard to clean. The hospitality industry saves up to 80% of the cost of bathtub replacement. Bathtub refinishing, being done in the bathroom for about four hours, saves hotels much needed time for their guests. Green bathroom remodeling saves money because it treads lightly on the environment and leaves the hospitality industry with plenty of "green". But nobody can afford bathtubs and liners that are worn-out and discolored especially since bathtub refinishing is only 20% of the cost of bathtub replacement.

Additionally, bathtub refinishing services lowers the carbon foot print of hotels all over the world. Guests who are who conscious of green traveling are showing more preference to green hotels. There is nobody in the hospitality industry that can afford bathtubs and liners that are worn-out and discolored.

Hotels like most businesses have found ways to save money in their bathroom remodeling by using bathtub refinishing instead of bathtub replacement. And as the economy continues to tighten and the competition continues to heighten, more hotels will continue to look at creative ways to maintain their bathrooms. Bathtub refinishing leaves no mess in the bathroom. The space can be used in 12 to 24 hours depending on the coatings used and the refinishing company.

In addition, the tighter the economy, the more demanding hotel guests get for a good value for the money they spend. A sluggish economy is not the time for hotels to lower their standards but to upgrade them. Bathtub refinishing is an inexpensive way to remodel your bathroom with a savings of up to 80% of what it would cost to replace a bathtub or sink. Hotels/motels green bathtub refinishing and green bathroom remodeling is saving hotels and motels money and time nationwide.
Hotels bathtub refinishing advantages in a nutshell

* It takes about 4 hours to refinish a bathtub. It takes days and perhaps weeks to replace a bathtub.

* No removal of sink or plumbing

* No damage to their walls or cabinets.

* Save up to 80% on the cost of replacement.

* Lower their carbon foot print because refinishing is the best green remodeling alternative.

Bathtub refinishing is the best green alternative to replacing. Hotels bathtub refinishing saves money and time. In a hotel bathroom, just to replace a standard bathtub and enclosures alone, can cost over $2,000 dollars. This is because of tearing down the walls, cost of getting rid of all the mess, the plumbing and tile work. And then when you add all the money that you would loose by not having those available for your guests, the price really goes up.

With bathtub refinishing, there is no demolition and tear out, so the bathtubs are refinished in the bathroom at the hotels. Therefore, hotels get to use their almost like new bathtub after 24 hours. Additionally, since your hotels' bathtubs and wall tile fixtures, and all necessary work is done at the hotels, you get all the, bathtub refinishing benefits over replacement.
Bathtub refinishing makes hotel tubs look like new

Bathtub refinishing offers these benefits to the hospitality industry:

* Working around a hotel's constraints and scheduling;
* Working within occupancy patterns, making the process as convenient as possible.

Bathtub refinishing advantages for the hotel industry:

Bathtub refinishing has saved hotels more than 80% the cost of replacement. It has saved hotels a lot of time, which translates to money because of the quick turn-around time that only bathtub refinishing provides. Hotels that are using bathtub refinishing as a green alternative in their remodeling are lowering their hotel's carbon footprint. They also enjoy the environmental benefits of refinishing.

Bathtub refinishing helps hotels maintain a professional appearance. This satisfies their guests and also meets the lodging industry ratings requirements. Private guest rooms; meeting and conference rooms; and common areas such as the lobby, restaurant and bar, hallways and elevators need to stay clean. With bathtub refinishing, hotels certainly save money and time, and keep happy guests. In a tight economy, bathtub refinishing is the hospitality industry's best green remodeling alternative.

Everything You Need to Know About Mira Shower Spares

Making changes to our homes is something that is inevitable if you want to keep your abode pleasant and attractive. After just a few years, you will begin to notice some traces of wear and tear in your home, and if you are the kind of person who always wants to maintain the beauty and cleanliness in your surroundings, then it is recommended that you make changes to your home every once in awhile.

Are you thinking about redesigning your bathroom? The extent of the makeover would depend on your budget. If you can set aside a substantial amount for this then you can have a complete overhaul- from the shower heads, to the bath tubs, the wallpaper, the basin, the tiles, and even the toilet. However, if your budget is minimal, you can do away with the major stuff and simply change a few things like the head shower, the faucet, and maybe even add a rug and a wall frame. You do not have to spend an arm and leg on it; in fact, you can spend a little over a hundred pounds and you can change the overall look of your bathroom.

Perhaps one of the most-purchased bathroom items would be shower spares. This is because homeowners understand the value of these replacement parts; if your shower system malfunctions, you do not have to drive all the way to the store to get a replacement. You can have one or two spares ready. Additionally, when you are renovating your home, particularly your bathroom, you can always start with the basic stuff such as shower spares, particularly if you do not have a big budget for it. These items are quite inexpensive and they could do well to give your shower experience a lift. When you notice a decline in water pressure and some leaking, then perhaps it is a good time to start replacing some parts in your shower. When you are browsing online to find the perfect shower parts, you might want to start with Mira shower spares because when it comes to value for money, you cannot go wrong with this brand.

Mira Showers, a UK brand that has been around since the 1920s, is among the most popular manufacturers of shower systems today. This company has everything you need, from mixer showers, electric showers, and even digital showers. When it comes to shower systems, you can find what you are looking for from them, or their distributors.

Another reason why Mira Showers has endeared itself to people is because this company contributes to the environment by:

1. Using recycled materials

2. Following the ISO14001 guidelines

3. Manufacturing products that are energy-efficient to reduce their carbon footprint

4. Printing brochures from eco-friendly paper

Would you not be delighted to purchase products made by a company that takes part in environmental protection? Of course you would, and this is also one of the reasons why Mira Showers has retained its popularity all these years. Take a look at Mira shower spares if you are looking for excellent quality replacement parts to fix your bathroom shower.

Small Bathroom Remodeling in a 1920s Home

Our son James was in Florida visiting some friends and was asked to look at a toilet in a home built in the 1920s. There was something wrong with the toilet as it wobbled. After looking at the bathroom, all 30 square feet of it (5ft X 6ft), he determined the floor under the toilet was gone. Apparently water had been leaking for several years under the ceramic floor tile rotting the sub floor wood and the floor joists away. The only thing holding the toilet in place was the front of the toilet and the toilet bowl leaning against the wall.

When James removed the flooring and discovered what was going to be involved, it was decided that he would remodel the bathroom by removing the almost useless pentagon shaped shower (less than 2ft across) and relocating the toilet to the other side of the room.

The original configuration was such that the toilet was under the stairs and there was very little headroom. Some additional easy cleaning options were desired and incorporated. A floor drain was added as this room is near a pool. New easy to clean ceramic floor tile was installed and he installed a pedestal sink and a new elongated bowl toilet.

Demolition of the floor confirmed that the floor needed some extensive repairs. There was just enough room to add the new plumbing. The cast iron pipe with lead sleeves was removed and PVC was installed. Copper was installed for all the supply lines.

The existing walls were plastered using techniques of the 1920s and were several inches thick, not to mention very heavy. James decided not to remove any unnecessary material and re-plaster any areas that needed to be repaired. Saving time and money.

The damaged floor joists were repaired using pressure treated wood to help ensure no future damage would occur. New 3/4 inch plywood covered the floor joists and 1/2 inch Hardiboard covered the plywood. The Hardiboard will keep the floor from flexing and keep the ceramic tile from cracking. This was very important as he was using 16 inch ceramic tiles.

After the floor was installed, the walls were leveled with new stucco. Then floor tile was installed. A economical way to do the floor tile edging is to cut 4 inches off the side of the 16 inch tile and use it for the baseboard. This way the finished edge shows and the cut edge is hidden.

Since this was a very small bathroom remodel, the waste is of little concern. James placed the floor tile and then the baseboard. The sink and the toilet were installed next. He grouted the finished floor with un-sanded grout. Then he saved some grout to go under the toilet and the pedestal sink.

NEVER use caulk or plaster around the toilet and pedestal sink as these materials break down over time.

The final finish would be applied after the plaster dried. Depending upon thickness, it may take several days for everything to dry. Then all the homeowner needs to do is paint.

Garbage Disposal - Ways to Keep Your Kitchen Tidy!

As you know that kitchen plays an important part for everyone in the house. Most of the people consider it a central room as compare to other rooms because kitchen is the only place in the whole house where whole family members gather or spend time together while eating. Apart from this eating aspect, kitchen is the busiest and occupied room in the house. Usually mothers are always found in kitchens doing some cooking or baking. Therefore, you can say that this is the place which you should try to keep clean and tidy.

It has been noticed that, after using different sauces and other eatables products the kitchen sometimes produces quite irritating odors. So, to keep this place clean, experts suggest, taking proper measures for the disposal of garbage can be a good option to avoid such problems. Most of the times, the irritating smell in kitchen is produced due to the garbage in the garbage basket. To avoid this, I will suggest you to put the garbage basket out side the house near the window of the kitchen.

Below, some vital points are given that can play a vital role to clean your garbage basket properly. By following these techniques, you can get rid of unlikeable scent of kitchen, bacteria and other insects.

The first method to apply is pouring of 1-2 cups of baking soda down in the kitchen drain. After this, use vinegar to kill all the germs and other insects. Do not wash way the mixture of vinegar and baking soda for almost half an hour. Now, boil some water and wash away the mixture in drain. This technique is quite helpful to get rid of all the germs and bacteria.

After this step, you can also use some ice cubes on the drain to reduce any kind of bad irritating odor. I am sure that above mentioned small technique is quite significant for garbage disposal. You can also logon to the site given below for further details on garbage disposal.

Rehabs, Renovations & Remodels - Fundamentals in Estimating Repair Costs

Estimating repairs: The silent assassin on your project. Whether you are a full time investor/rehabber, wholesaler or contractor It REALLY can be the single most important factor in determining your bottom line. It is just as important as calculating the after repair value, or ARV, of the property prior to making your decision to purchase. It will affect your bottom line in a way that if you OVERESTIMATE, it might cause you to pass on a worthy deal. If you are a wholesaler or contractor, you might just estimate yourself right out of a deal. On the other hand, if you UNDERESTIMATE, people will feel you might be hiding some things just to move a property, you are cutting corners, or you might be trying to make chicken salad out of chicken@$#%! Either way, NOBODY WINS!

Unless you already are a contractor, you should never commit to hiring one UNLESS you have a written estimate from one PRIOR to starting on your project. This holds true whether you are seasoned or a newbie. EVERYONE calculates their repair estimates differently. There are several reasons for this but two of the most important ones are: 1) exit strategy on the property and 2) doing the work yourself vs. subcontracting the work out. I feel it is best to give ranges-REALISTIC RANGES. I use plus or minus 10%-20%and then validate the reasons for this range. Example: if you calculate a repair cost of $10,000 the range might be + or - 15%. Therefore, your estimate range would be from $8,500-$11,500. Reasons for these differences could be for a rental property vs. retail sale. As an investor, contractor GOOD ACCURATE estimates will establish credibility with your peers in the industry and most importantly will create an opportunity to see black instead of red.

If you do not know what your are looking at ABOVE ANYTHING-DO NOT GUESS!!! It will kill your credibility with other investors as well as your profit potential. I can not repeat this enough, but I will anyway: DO NOT GUESS your repair costs. You will not last very long in the business, I can assure you of that. Bring along an experienced friend/subcontractor/rehabber with you. Do not be afraid to ask someone. It is WELL WORTH IT! You might have to take someone out to lunch, buy them a few beers or even get them a gift card from the Home Depot or Lowe's. These things are really more for their time. It does go a long way. Many people will be happy & honored that you trusted them enough to bring them along to share their "expertise." Even if you had to pay someone to give you an estimate if it were in your budget, the money you spend on doing so could potentially save you from disaster.

You could ask a contractor to give you a bid on it or you might decide to hire a home inspector to do the estimated work needed to be done, or will need to do both. It might cost you anywhere from $100-$450 to do this. Some charge by the hour, but most will charge you by the job. They will generally spend anywhere from a couple of hours to as much as a full day to inspect the property. Many home inspectors do their work for people wanting or needing to get financing for their purchase & the lenders are more stringent on their loan requirements these days. It could be a very different situation for someone wanting to buy with cash. Accuracy IS important, but having too many repair costs might kill your deal and might not necessarily create additional value to your investment so: KNOW YOUR AREA AND FOCUS ON THE EXIT STRATEGY.

Here is the big one that usually NO ONE wants to be associated with: STRUCTURAL REPAIRS. While structural repairs can be daunting, they can also be tamed just like any big beast. You just have to confront it head on. Some people run for the hills. I personally have no concerns about these types of properties because many times these have the biggest profits potential. This one truly depends on your tolerance for risk, BUT if you do your homework these could yield the greatest reward.

In my opinion, here are the most important ones to look out for: 1) ROOF/RAFTERS/TRUSSES- checked for "cupped shingles", excess discoloration, humps in the roof lines. Newer shingles will have more "grittiness" to them, whereas older shingles will look much smoother. 2) FOUNDATION- This one is the LYNCH PIN of the entire project. If your foundation is bad, whether a concrete slab or frame foundation, the chances are so is most of the rest of the house. They could easily account for the majority of the costs. I have seen projects COMPLETELY run out of money just from the aftermath of foundational repairs. 3) TERMITES- Yes, I said termites! So easily & frequently missed, but SO destructive. A couple of very critical things to look for: tiny wings, tiny eggs (kind of look like really small chocolate sprinkles) and "pop-outs." These are pin-hole sized openings in the walls or ceilings that, unless you got a really up-close look, you might think they were just air bubbles left behind on the walls from the paint or even the drywall finishers.

Another essential piece to estimating your repair costs are the non-structural issues. Some of these issues MIGHT be very well caused by the structural issues, although you might not make a connection from one to the other. The prime example here would be water/moisture intrusion. It is also responsible for many of the dollars spent on your project. One of the biggest challenges you might have with water/moisture intrusion is that where it is coming out of often times is not the location where it is coming in from. Water travels the path of least resistance, so you might see water coming from one side of the house, but it could easily have originated from the other. The worst part: YOU MIGHT NEVER FIND IT, especially if you dont know where to begin to look. Some things to look for are bubbles, peeling paint, rust stains on the walls or ceilings.

These specific indicators are usually dead giveaways for water/moisture intrusion. Also, things like bowed wood trim or separating from the walls (door casings), floors (baseboards), ceiling (crown molding) are all signs that there might be an issue. Wood floors that are either cupped or have many small gaps between the planks are also signs. REMEMBER one very important indicator of moisture & wood: Wood is like a sponge in that is absorbs moisture. Also, like a sponge, wood will shrink as it drys out, leaving behind gaps and separations. Over time, this intrusion could lead to mold/mildew challenges, which are not cheap either.

Other interior issues to look out for are the "Big 3"- Electrical, plumbing & mechanical (HVAC). Check all switches in the house & the main electrical panel thoroughly. Make sure your existing electrical service will support any electrical upgrades you plan on doing to the house. For the plumbing, turn on all water faucets in the house, including showers, sinks, dish washer, and washing machine. Look at not only the water pressure but the water volume. It is also a good idea to flush the toilets at the same time. Not that all of this would ever happen at one time, but it creates a good indicator at the quality of the plumbing throughout the house. Also, check your exterior sewer water and/or septic connections. As far as the HVAC goes, is the air handler in the attic, or in a closet or garage? If it is in the attic, it will create a greater potential for damage if the system ever backs up and leaks. Check all dampers and determine if there is proper air flow, especially in the farthest room located away from the main air handler unit. Low air volume might mean the unit is not large enough to cool or heat the entire house or the trunk lines have a leak in them. Either way, it could be an additional cost not planned for.

Last but certainly not least is the exterior curb appeal of the property. This should actually be the first thing to be done & generates one of the highest returns on your investment. A clean looking yard will yield more interest from prospective buyers than a ratty looking one. PERIOD. Regardless of what the interior looks like in the beginning of your rehab project, if your exit strategy is to sell the house right after finishing the work the whole idea is to get people to stop by & check it out. As many as possible! You could have a beautiful looking interior but no one would would really ever know if they see a nasty looking exterior. The perception alone would many times keep interested parties from stopping by. Most yard cleanups could be done pretty inexpensively and take a couple of days at the most. Remember, we are not looking for an immaculate yard right now, but one that says: "Hey! there IS a house there behind all of those weeds!"

In conclusion, you must either get really, really good at estimating these repair costs yourself OR have someone on your team that is. Having very good and trustworthy contractors are like having a great mechanic. It will go much farther than you could imagine. You must do everything possible going into a project knowing what your maximum allowable budget is, and STICK TO IT. Just as a side note, whether you have experience or not, there should ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS be a "Fudge Fund" set aside for underestimated or unforeseen costs. Believe me, you will thank yourself for this!

Differences of as little as a couple thousand dollars in overestimating or underestimating your project could be the difference in your investments moving like hot potatoes or sitting growing hair on the shelves. Be wise, be diligent, be thorough and above all, be involved in this part of your project.

Here are the top 10 repairs/updates on your home that will generally yield the highest returns:

1) Minor bathroom remodels
2) Landscaping
3) Minor kitchen remodels
4) Clean looking exterior of the property ( pressure washing, painting, etc..)
5) Adding/conversion of existing space to an extra bedroom
6) Major bathroom renovation
7) Major kitchen update
8) Addition of a covered porch/patio
9) Installing of newer energy efficient windows
10) Enlarging the family/living room.

Water Pressure - What Is Right For Your Home?

When it comes to water pressure, what one person thinks is adequate might come across as a trickle to another. Because opinions vary widely, it is important to be able to make a determination of the adequacy of water pressure in some definitive way. That is especially true for a working home inspector. If a client asks why the inspector did not comment on high or low water pressure, then having a normal water pressure reading documented on the report is a good idea.

Water pressure gauges are easy to use practical tools and, certainly, not out of the reach of the homeowner in either cost or the expertise required to operate them correctly. In fact, these gauges can be purchased at any good hardware store for about $10.00. Once you have the device, you might wonder what readings you are looking for? Well, normal pressure is described as being between 40 and 80 PSI (pounds per square inch). The easiest place to check that reading is to screw the gauge on at an outside faucet. Beware, there can be a potential snag doing that: Not often, but sometimes, the hosebibb or faucet is plumbed in before a pressure reducer is put in the system and, in that case, there will be a high reading on the gauge. For this reason, when a hosebibb gives a high reading, a person should try to get another reading, such as attaching the gauge to the faucet the washing machine connects to. The washing machine faucet is usually inside the home, or so we hope, and has the same threads as the pressure gauge. If the reading is still high, then the problem is confirmed since the washing machine is one of the appliances we are trying to protect from damage caused by high water pressure.

As an aside, it is my opinion, having inspected many homes and then checked the water flow, that any reading under 50 PSI is suspect and the people who are going to live in the house ought to see for themselves if they like the water pressure. If a person buying a house does not have a pressure gauge, or wonders if he or she will be satisfied with the water pressure, I suggest the good old-fashioned multi-flow test. It is simple enough. Get the dishwasher or washing machine running. Then turn on a sink or two and go to a bathroom and try the shower, the sink, etc. Do this on each floor, with other fixtures running. You can get a pretty good idea of the adequacy of the water pressure and how it will affect you.

As far as solutions to a pressure issue: If the pressure is too high, a pressure reducer will probably be installed by a plumber. If, on the other hand, the water pressure is too low then that will be more complicated. The cause can range from bad pressure at the source, to rusted pipes and a number of other issues.

Faucet Repair

Faucets have internal parts that eventually wear out. The first to go are the washers and o-rings, then the seats, and then possibly the stem. As these parts wear you will start to get leaking from your faucet. The leaks could come from the spout and drip into the sink, or you could get leaking from the handle(s) and have water running on to your counter or under the counter. Just before we get into repairing your faucet let's consider a couple of things.

For you water conservationalists its out there did you know that 1 drop of water per second equals about 2,500 gallons of water per year? And most people that I have repaired faucets for wait until there faucet is leaking about 6-10 drips per second. That is about 12,500 to 25,000 gallons of water per year. That's $80 to $140 per year. Plus most of your leaks will start on the hot side way before the cold, since the hot water will deteriorate the rubber in the valves much quicker. So with the way energy costs are today you can add 30% to 60% to those costs.

If your bathroom faucet is 10 years old or older you may wish to change the faucet out with a new one. I definitely recommend doing this. The reason I believe you should do this is that the labor for repairing the faucet and the labor for replacing the faucet are fairly close to the same. And the parts for repairing the faucet will be around $35.00. A new faucet will cost you around $75.00. So for only an extra $40.00 you will have a nice new faucet to brighten up your bathroom.

With your kitchen faucet the price difference can be much more significant. In either case you will need to make a decision that fits your situation the best.

Now with the bath tub or shower faucets, since the valve is behind the wall, then I recommend repairing the leak. The best time to replace a bath tub or shower faucet is during renovations. It is possible for you to replace sooner if you have enough access to the faucet from the back. So you could replace with a similar faucet or there is a flange made by delta that will cover holes left from a two or three handle faucet when you install a single lever faucet.
Faucet styles

This is an absolutely huge area. There is literally thousands of different faucets and models of faucets over the last 30 years.

A short list of the more common styles are:

Two handle bathroom, kitchen, bathtub or shower faucets with seats and washers

Two handle washerless bathroom, kitchen, bath tub or shower faucets

Three handle bath/shower faucets with seats and washers

(these will have a hot and cold tap as well as a control for the bath/shower)

Single lever bath/shower faucets with cartridge

Single lever kitchen faucets with pull-out head and cartridge

Single lever kitchen and bathroom faucets with rubber seats and ball control

The reason I say short list is because each of the above can have many different variations. There are dozens of different seats, washers, and cartridges. Because there is so many different styles and variations the time to make the repair can become longer because quite often you will need to go to a specialty shop to match the parts with the parts you removed. So you can understand that if you are paying a plumber $75.00 per hour (that is the going rate here) the replacement of the faucet may be cheaper than the repair of the faucet.

Now on to the faucet repair job

Each type of faucet will have a similar repair procedure. I suggest putting the parts in order on the counter beside you as you pull them out so that you know exactly how to put them back again.

1. Turn off the water.

2. Pry off the handle screw cover.

3. Take the screw out of the handle

4. Remove handle (you may need handle pullers to do this)

5. Remove escusion if there is one (usually on two handle bath tubs and showers)

6. Loosen off the holding nut (in single lever bathtub showers there is a holding ring)

7. Remove the stem (cartridge in single lever bath/showers)

8. Check the brass seats for cuts (use your baby fingernail or flashlight)

(remove rubber seats if you have a washerless faucets)

9. Replace brass seats if necessary (the seats might be chrome as well)

10. Replace the washer (replace the cartridge in single levers)

11. If need be replace the stem.

12. Put back together

13. Check for leaks.

Congratulations! You just saved yourself $100-$200 repairing your own faucet

Bathtub Faucet Repair Tips and Techniques

Did you know that you can fix a leaking shower faucet and save hundreds of gallons of water a year? Most people just think of a dripping faucet as an annoyance and don't realize how much precious water is being wasted one drop at a time. The good news is that almost anyone with a few basic hand tools can learn how to fix most dripping faucets.

Let's start with the basics. Faucets have one primary purpose, to allow the water in your pipes to be used in a controlled manner. This means that they have to open to allow water out of the pipes and close to keep water in the pipes. Not rocket science, right? The closing part is what we want to concentrate on here.

There Are Two Basic Faucet Designs

Faucets drip when they fail to completely trap the water in the pipes. Most faucets use one of two basic methods to stop the water flow. Some, primarily older designs, use rubber or neoprene washers which tighten against a "seat" and block the flow of water. Drips from these faucets are addressed by replacing the washers and/or seats. We'll talk about how to do that in a minute. Most other faucet designs involve some sort of cartridge. Some people call these "washerless" faucets. Repairing newer style water faucets like these usually involves replacing the cartridge(s).

Washers And Seats

Older faucet designs often use washers to block the water and keep it in the pipes. Tightening the handle compresses the washer against a "seat" and seals the opening, thus stopping the water flow. If you need to do a bathtub faucet repair on a three handle wall faucet you probably have this type. You will also run into this style if you need to fix a leaking shower faucet hat has two handles. Many sink and lavatory faucets also use washers. One way to tell whether or not your faucets use washers is to see if the handle gets harder to turn as you turn it off. If turning it really tight stops the drip, this probably, but not always, means that you have washers. If you do have a dripping faucet that has washers, the basic repair process is very similar whether you need to know how to repair a shower faucet,repair a leaking tub faucet or fix a dripping sink faucet. There is, however, one important difference.

Bathtub Faucet Repair

The one critical thing to remember when fixing a leaky bathtub faucet is that you will have to turn the water off to the entire house before removing any parts other than the outer trim pieces. If you're not sure which pieces are trim, just turn the water off first just in case. Once you have turned off the main water to the house you can begin taking things apart. There are lots of different brands and designs of faucets out there and they all come apart a little differently, so you will have to sort of feel your way through.

Removing The Trim

The first step is to remove the handles. This is usually done by removing a cap to expose the handle screw and then removing the screw. Next, remove the handle. This may require a little finesse, as the handles sometimes get stuck in place. One trick is to place the handles of a pair of channel lock pliers behind the valve handle, one on each side, and tap evenly on the handle to nudge it loose. If this doesn't work you can buy a special tool to remove handles but these tools are sometimes hard to find and usually a little patience is all you need to do the trick.

After he handles are off, there is usually some sort of sleeve over the stem itself. This typically has to come off too. Once again, there are many different configurations. One popular design uses threaded plastic tubes to connect the trim sleeve with the valve. Other types have the sleeve threaded directly onto the valve. You will have to figure this step out before you can proceed. If you can determine what brand valve you have there is a good chance of finding instructions on-line.

Now For The Root Of The Problem

OK, so you have removed both the handles and any remaining trim sleeve from the valve. Now you are ready to get to the root of the problem, your valve stem. The washer is almost always at the other end of the valve stem from the handle. Usually the stem is threaded into the valve body and you will just need to unscrew it to remove it. Here's a tip. Stick the handle back on for a second and open the valve half way. This relieves pressure on the stem and makes it easier to unscrew. Now you just need to make sure you are loosening the correct nut.

Lots of valves have a packing nut around the stem. It is usually a little smaller and just in front of the actual connection with the valve body. The packing nut's purpose is to squeeze some special packing material around the stem to prevent water from leaking around the stem when the valve is in use. Loosening the packing nut won't help you, you need to get your wrench on the actual connection to the valve body. By the way, a deep socket is often the only tool that will work to remove the valve stem.

Removing The Valve Stem

The easiest way to make sure you have the correct nut is to see if there is a gap opening up between the nut and the valve body as you loosen the nut. The valve stem itself will also usually turn when you have the right one. If you have loosened the packing nut by mistake, don't worry, you will adjust it before you are finished anyway. Go ahead and remove both stems and keep up with which one is which, it matters on many valves.

After you have the stems out you should be able to find the washer on the "inside" end. If it is nicked, torn or brittle it is likely the cause of your drip. Even if it looks brand new, go ahead and replace it. You've already come this far. You can get replacement washers at almost any hardware store. Sometimes you may want to replace the whole stem, especially if the handle end is stripped out. It's best to just take the stem with you to the store and see if you can match it up. Most Do It Yourself stores have replacement stems for many popular brands. If your valve has a center diverter valve to switch the waterfrom the tub spout to the shower head the same process applies. Many times it is easier to replace the diverter stem than to repair it. This really depends on the design of the stem.

How Are Your Seats?

One more thing to check is the seats. These are the part of the valve body that the washer tightens up against to stop the water flow. If you can get your finger inside the valve, feel of the seats and see if they feel rough. If so, it would be best to replace them if you can get them out. The inside of the seats, which is where the water flows through when the valve is open, usually have either a hex or square recess. Special seat wrenches are used to remove the seats. You can usually get these wrenches at the same place you get the other parts and they're not expensive. You just stick the wrench through the seat and unscrew it. The replacement seats screw back in the same way, just put a little pipe dope on the threads before you install it.

Put It All Back Together

Once you've figured out what needs to be replaced and have done that, you just need to put everything back together. If your valve has packing nuts don't put the trim back on until you have turned the water back on. Once the water is on, go ahead and stick the handle on for a second and open the valve. Make sure no water is leaking around the stem. If it is leaking, with the handle opened half way, snug down the packing nut until the leak stops. Easy does it. If you get it too tight the handle will be hard to turn. Now finish installing the trim pieces and you are done.

Repairing Newer Style Water Faucets

If you have a newer, "washerless" type valve the repair process is similar, but usually easier. Many of these type valves use a self contained cartridge. If the valve starts to drip, just replace the cartridge and you're done. You still need to turn the water off and remove the handles and trim. The cartridge is usually held in place by a retaining nut on the valve body or, in the case of most Moen valves, by a retaining clip. Simply remove the cartridge and put another one in it's place. If your hot and cold are backwards when you finish, turn the water back off, pull the cartridge back out, turn it over 180 degrees and re-install it.

Delta Style Valves

One other common design that is considered "washerless" was made famous by Delta and copied by several other makers. It uses little "cup" seals that fit over springs recessed in the back of the valve body. The springs press these "seals" against the cartridge and regulate the flow through little tapered openings in the cartridge. If you have one of these and it's dripping, changing these springs and seals will usually correct it. Here's a tip. Once you have the cartridge out of the way, insert a phillips screwdriver into the seal and pop both the seal and spring out. Stick the new ones on the end of the screwdriver to help guide them into place. This is especially helpful if you don't have long slender fingers.

Delta, and a few imitators, also have a faucet design that uses a ball instead of a cartridge. This is not as common in tub or shower valves but there are plenty of them out there. The springs and seals are the same but there are lots more o-rings an parts to deal with. The good news is that these parts are readily available. While it's a little more complicated than learning how to repair a Moen kitchen faucet, which is a piece of cake, it is still easier than working with most washer type faucets.

These Techniques Work In The Kitchen Too

Armed with the knowledge you've gained in this article you now not only know how to repair a shower faucet and to repair a leaking tub faucet, but you can apply these skills to many other faucets as well. After fixing a leaky bathtub faucet, stopping a dripping outside hose faucet will be a breeze. The techniques that you will use to complete a "washerless" bathtub faucet repair can be used when repairing newer style water faucets of all kinds. Whether you have an old dripping tub faucet or a newer kitchen faucet that just won't quite shut off you can now fix it. So put these new skills to use, roll up your sleeves and stop that drip!

Copyright 2008 Bryan Stevens

Toilet Parts

The parts of a toilet include internal parts (filler valve, filler float, overflow tube, flush valve, siphon tube) and external parts (handle, tank, rim, bowl). While internal toilet parts create the siphon that makes a toilet work, the external toilet parts have a role as well beyond that of comfort and appearance.

Toilets flush when enough water is pushed into the siphon tube that it fills up. This amount of water causes the siphon action that sucks the water from the toilet bowl. The siphon process ends when the toilet bowl is empty and there is nothing left to pull.

What turns a primitive toilet bowl with a siphon into the common household toilet is the tank. Small amounts of water are not enough to cause the flush reaction because there is not enough water to fill the siphon tube. If there is not enough water in the tank, the siphon won't work, so the tank stores several gallons of water at a time and refills quickly. These several gallons of water are what make all the other toilet parts work together to create the siphon. The handle of the toilet is attached to the flush valve that acts as a plug in the tank. When the handle is pushed, the valve lifts and all the tank's water pours out into the bowl and down the siphon tube, filling it and causing the siphon to start. The other toilet part that is included in this process is the overflow tube. When the flush valve lifts, some of the tank water is siphoned up the overflow tube and directed to the bowl, to starts slowly refilling it. When the handle is released, the flush valve settles back into place and plugs the tank again.

To refill the tank and the bowl, the rest of the toilet parts mentioned above come into play. The filler float floats in the tank water and is attached to the filler valve. When the toilet's handle is pushed and the water leaves the tank, the float drops with the water level and, when it does, the filler valve is opened. While the toilet flushes, the refill valve starts slowly refilling the tank. Once the water level in the tank floats the filler float back to the top, the valve is shut off and the water stops running.

Choosing a Handicapped Bathtub

Like any other products and facilities, it is always a question of convenience. Some products even make bathing so easy that a disabled person can do the task all by himself. Considering that a person with certain limitations in movement may find it difficult to bathe, your handicapped bathtubs must have what it takes to make life easier.

The idea of using handicapped tubs is to provide ease in bathing for a person having difficulties in movement. The limitations in movement may cause danger especially when one is submerged in water. A slippery area may also cause harm for a person who has physical disability.

Handicap tubs are very convenient to use. Some products even make it possible for a person with limited mobility to bathe without the need for support from another person. A tub may come in many shapes and sized. Some are elevated, some have doors and some even make it possible for a person to get inside a tub without the need to get off a wheelchair.

People with physical disability are very prone to accidents. The continuous use of a handicapped bathtub can be dangerous if your tub has low quality materials and does not have much of the features needed to make bathing more convenient for a person who is disabled.

So what do you need to look for in a handicap tub? Some of the things that you need to find in these types of bath tub are illustrated below. Making sure that your handicapped bathtub has these, will ensure that your loved one will not get harmed even when no one is attending to him or her while bathing.

The built of your bath tub may vary. It is best to make sure that your handicapped bathtub has fiberglass reinforcement. This will ensure that certain features in the texture of the tub will be suitable for the care of people with physical disability. If a disabled person is confined in a wheelchair, certain surfaces may add to irritations at the lower parts of their body and their lower back. Making sure that your tub at least has fiberglass reinforcements will give a person added comfort while bathing.

No matter how supportive the contours are on your handicap tubs, it is best to make sure that it has supportive handicap bars that are easy to reach in any position. There should always be bars near the seat, on top of the arm rest and a vertical bar to support standing positions. Handles should always be either stainless steel or made of materials that are not harmful.

Your handicapped bathtubs should always have a rubber pillow to avoid slipping. It is very possible for a person with severe physical disability to slip down to submerged parts of the bath tub. Having a rubber pillow will give added support while sitting down on a walk-in handicapped bath tub.

The water spouts should never have sharp edges and any metal part of a handicapped bathtub should always be far from the main tub. Showers should always support sitting and standing positions and the water switches should always be within reach.

Best Sump Pump - Submersible Or Pedestal?

What are the differences between the submersible and pedestal sump pumps?

Placement: A submersible is designed to be placed in a sump pit and submerged in water. The pedestal is designed so the pump sits in the sump pit, but the motor sits outside the pit. The motor should not get wet.

Stability: The submersible pump is placed on the bottom of the sump pit so it is very stable. On the other hand the other type has the pump on the bottom of the pit, but the motor is outside the pit. A brace attached to the motor is required to make it stable.

Float-switch: The submersible sump has one of four types of float/switches: Tether floats hang freely from the side of the pump and float when the water around the pump raises. Vertical floats have a ball that moves up and down on a vertical rod with only a slight movement. A diaphragm, which is a membrane located on a drum shaped mechanism, becomes concave with increased water pressure which activates the pump. A probe controlled by a microprocessor which senses water pressure and activates the pump. The pedestal has a tether float

Sentry light signal: A submersible sump pump operating with a probe is the only float-switch mechanism that lets the owner know if it is operating properly when not running. The pedestal pump has a visible sentry light that indicates if it is operating.

Ease of replacing faulty float-switch: A submersible with a failed float, vertical switch attached to the pump or a diaphragm requires removal of the pump from the pit for replacement. A pedestal float mechanism is attached to the motor which is outside the pit so does not require removal of the pump from the pit.

Noise level and safety: A submersible sump is quieter because it sits in the pit. The pit and water reduce the noise. A submersible pump is also safer because it is in the pit. Children cannot touch any part of the pump unless the sump pit cover is not in place. The occurrence of an electrical problem is more likely to happen to the submersible pump since it is in the water, however such problems rarely occur.

Life span and cost: The pedestal pump has a longer life span. Water does take its toll on a submersible pump. Pedestals are known to last 2 to 5 times longer and are cheaper than submersible pumps.

Handling of debris: The submersible is built to handle small solids since it comes with a screen over the face of the pump preventing debris to be sucked up into the impeller. The pedestal style has a hose or pipe that reaches down into the bottom of the pit and sucks up anything in its surroundings.

Which of the two types is best for you? The following questions are designed to help you in your decision process to select the pump that is best for you.

Are you concerned about pumping capacity and stability? A submersible handles greater volumes of water and is more stable.

Are you concerned about cost? A pedestal is cheaper.

Are you concerned about safety and the noise level? A pedestal is noisy and is not recommended for use where children or pets exist and for basements that are used for family living.

Are there small particles in your sump pit water? A pedestal pump is not built to handle solids or particles.

Are you looking for a pump where you can replace the float-switch without having to remove the pump from the sump pit? Few submersible pumps have a float cage that is external to the pump. The pedestal sump pump float-switch maintenance is outside the pit.

What are your concerns? The above information has been provided to help you make the right decision for your situation.

Replacing a Shower Tub Faucet? Tips You'll Be Glad You Saw

Is the constant drip from the shower annoying you at night? Fix it. Replacing shower tub faucets is easy with the tips given below.

o The faucets come in various styles and sizes. The old ones used to have washers and newer ones have cartridges in them which control hot and cold water. If there is a leak it will be due to these. They start leaking or dripping when washers become stiff and corroded. Water pressure also hastens this process.
o So when you remove these take the faucets to the hardware store and get them replaced according to the correct size. Take an exact centre to centre measurement.
o Keep the correct tools with you. Basically you require two pipe wrenches one for holding and another for turning. For square or hex nuts open end wrenches are ideal as they have smooth jaws. If the pipe is of small diameter then you need to have vise grip wrench.
o While soldering be careful. Too much heat can damage the faucet body.
o Keep a pile of rags and water with you. While soldering keep a wet rag on opposite side of faucet. This will keep the faucet cool while soldering.
o After soldering wipe joint with a clean cloth to remove debris and flux.
o Flush the water line by removing the cartridge.
o When you buy a new faucet keep the manufacturer's instruction sheet with you. They will come in handy during repairs. Also keep spare parts in a safe place.
o Always plan for an access wall on the opposite side of the wall behind the shower faucet.

While replacing the washer or cartridge remember

o Turn the water supply off.
o remove the faucet handle
o Remove the faucet assembly consisting of the trim and the stem assembly.
o Take the washer and the stem for replacement.
o Grease the threads and washer and assemble it all back.

Now just turn on the water supply and check if your do it yourself has worked. Good luck.

Thawing - A Key to Frozen Pipe Repair

Frozen pipe repair begins with figuring out if it has burst or not. If it has not then this is very good news. What you need to do then is to proceed to thaw out the problem area. You will know that it is frozen because when you turn your bathroom or kitchen faucet on no water will appear, or if it does it will be a very small amount. Once you realize that it is blocked you need to get to work to fix the problem right away.

To start, open the faucet that is supplied by the pipe. You then need to locate the area where the blockage is situated. Follow it back from the faucet to where it goes through areas that are cold. Examples of these could be an unheated crawl space, an unheated basement or an exterior wall.

The blocked section will either be coated with ice or it will have a frosted appearance. If the section has been this way for some time then it may look fissured or bulged. As you do your best to thaw the frozen area there is always the chance that it could burst. If it does then go to the water main and shut it off without delay!

If the pipe is exposed then you should leave the main water valve on. It is important that you remember to thaw and heat in the direction of the faucet leading toward the blocked part. The reason for this is because it will allow water to flow out as the ice begins to melt. The pressure from the water in the area will automatically force the ice to exit once it has melted enough.

Thawing is a very integral aspect of this type of repair. You are left with a few options for doing this. You will require an intense heat source for this purpose. The most common technique is to use a hair dryer. In fact a high powered hair dryer is one of the safest methods you can employ.

Before you begin, as previously stated, always ensure that the faucet is open. Then go to work. Heat it in such a manner that you work your way back from the faucet and towards the area of the blockage. If it happens to be close to a wall then what you want to do is place a cookie sheet directly behind the pipe. This is beneficial for your purposes because it serves to radiate heat where you need it most- onto the back portion of the pipe.

Other tools you can use in terms of thawing include a lamp, a small portable heater or electric tape. If you decide to use a lamp then go with an incandescent lamp or an infrared lamp.

10 Maintenance Tips to Keep Your Septic System Running Smoothly

Correct Maintenance of your on-site Septic is the key to keeping your system running smoothly. Although Septic Systems should last between 20-30 years, neglecting regular maintenance on your system could result in early deterioration of your septic and drainfield systems, and lead to expensive repair or replacement costs much earlier in your Septic System's lifetime.

Think of your septic system as a vehicle. With regular maintenance, fluid changes and system checks on your car, it could have a lifetime of 20-30 years. The same can be said about your septic system. Regular Maintenance and Inspections will catch problems early in their stages, and allow you to fix those problems before they lead to a system failure, potentially saving you thousands of dollars in replacement cost. Here are ten maintenance tips to keep your OSS running smoothly for years to come.

1. Have your Septic System pumped regularly.

The average home will need to have the septic tank pumped out every three to five years. Without regular system pumping, solids could overload the Septic tank(s) and sludge could leach into the drainfield. Drainfield effluent should be clear of these solids to keep the system running cleanly.

2. Divert all access runoff away from your septic tank.

All gutters and drainpipes should be directed away from your Septic Tank(s) and Drain Fields. By diverting all access runoff away from your system, you are allowing the septic to treat the waste and greywater it was meant to treat effectively. If you allow this runoff to enter the system, your septic could become hydronically overloaded, allowing the drainfield to become oversaturated and not do it's job properly.

3. Make sure all access lids and ports are sealed tight.

Quite often, water can penetrate poorly sealed lids and ports and cause problems in your septic system. When water gets into these cracks and crevaces it can hydrolically overload your septic system and cause the drainfield to become oversaturated. This is often more of a problem with pressure type systems. It causes pumps to run constantly, overworking the pump and wasting energy and money.

4. Have your Septic System inspected routinely.

The State of Washington currently requires all homeowners to have their Septic System tested every year for all types of systems, except for Gravity feed systems, which need to be inspected every three years. By having your system inspected regularly you will be able to diagnose and fix problems early before they become failures.

5. Have the proper drawings and sitemaps for your system.

When your septic system is installed, there should be a site map, or plot map drawing showing all of the components of your septic system. By having this handy you can eliminate having to guess where your septic tank, pump tanks, transport lines, or Drainfields are located in case of an emergency that needs immediate attention. If you don't have a site map or there is not one on record with your health department, it would be wise to have Septic Designer/Architect create one for you.

6. Do not cover or obstruct the System in any way.

Do not cover or obstruct the Septic System components or Drainfield with any Asphalt, Concrete, Decks, Framing or Structures that would impede you from accessing these areas. Keep vehicles off your septic system. Their pressure can yield damage to the pipes and tank, and your system may not drain properly under compacted soil. If you need to replace any of these components in the future it will be difficult to access them with any of the before mentioned items obstructing them.

7. Don't introduce Septic tank additives or "rejuvenators" in your septic tank.

Whether they claim to break up sludge or scum or to unclog drain fields, or biologically-based septic additives like septic tank yeast cultures, septic tank bacteria, starter bacteria, or septic tank enzymes. These can actually damage your system, causing frothing and excessive activity and thus preventing normal settling of solid wastes. Check with your local health department or authority if you are considering introducing additives.

8. Do not flush any items other than septage or toilet tissues.

By using your toilet as a trash receptacle you are introducing unacceptable items, some which will never decompose or chock inlets/outlets, and will require constant pumping of the septic tank. Limit the use of toilet bowl and drain cleaners because they are harmful to the friendly bacteria that aid in the decomposition of the solids in the septic tank. Do not use a sink disposal unit if you are on a septic system. While those units grind up waste foods, most septic systems are not designed or capable of dealing with such undigested solids.

9. Refrain from using heavy oils or cleaners.

Never dump cooking oil or grease or such oily substances in sinks or toilets. As these substances float on water, they pose a threat of clogging the inlet pipes by filling up upper part of septic tank. This oil can also transfer into the transport pipes, solidify, and cause excessive buildup that can cause blockage of the drainfield.

10. Do not plant large vegetation over your Drainfield.

Do not plant any trees or large shrubs over the septic area, drainpipes or drainfield/leachfields. The roots from these plants will eventually grow into the drain lines and obstruct or damage them. Grasses or small plants are OK, as long as the root system is shallow and will not impede or block drain lines.

By following these 10 tips and Maintenance techniques your Septic System should last for many years to come!

Plumbing Needs - Find the Right Plumber

It's the middle of the night and you're wide awake staring at the ceiling, not because you're overwhelmed with worry about the new health care plan or when your unemployment will run out- although both can cause stress and insomnia- but no your wide awake because you're listening to the drip, drip, drip of the bathroom faucet. Twenty drips a minute, you count.

That can't' be good for your water bill. That's almost three gallons of water a day dripping down the drain.

You feel a flash o f guilt thinking of all those people in third world countries who don't have water at all and your letting three whole gallons just drip away. Somehow you make it to six am before you stumble bleary eyed into the kitchen to make a cup of coffee strong enough to carry you to work but the whole time your wondering to yourself- where do I find a plumber? Do you use the yellow pages to pick the largest ad? Do you call the one with the catchy jingle that you can't get out of your sleep deprived head? Why couldn't you have picked out a plumber before you ever foresaw the day when you would need one?

The best way to find a good plumber of course is word of mouth. But somehow calling all your friends, relatives and co workers for a recommendation at six am does not seem like the best plan to get any qualified responses. The next best thing to using the plumber that your dad used and his dad used before him and -how old is this plumber by now anyways?

So maybe the next to the next best thing is to use some guide. This is a consumer driven web site that allows members to look at and post reviews of any business including you guessed it- plumbers. And some lists does not mind if you look for plumber at six in the morning or midnight or any other time of the day for that matter.

The web site is user friendly to navigate even for the sleep deprived. If you want to read every review you can, if you just want to look at the letter grade based on the overall review of a plumber you can do that too. You can even go wild and do both. The best part about using one of the recommended plumbers on such lists is the fact that you know the review is real. The staff won't delete out poor reviews but they will make sure the reviews have a member name attached and they are pretty clever about finding the reviews that are planted. What this means to you is the review is legitimate and you just found your new plumber.

The Best Ways To Pick The Right Bathroom Faucets

Bathroom faucets are obviously one of the important parts of any bathroom. Without these, there is no sink, shower, or tub. While all bathroom faucets are meant to serve the very basic purpose of carrying water, they now also come in a wide array of shapes and styles. Finding the right design can be difficult, but it's well worth the effort of the search.

Before buying bathroom faucets, there are several things you will want to think about. First and foremost, you will want to consider which type of design is appropriate and what type of design you want. What kind of handle do you want for your faucet? Do you want a bathroom faucet with a large round knob that you can adjust either way for increased hot or cold water, or do you want a pull handle? Even beyond that, do you want one handle, or two (one for each temperature of water)?

A second serious consideration with bathroom faucets is finding a style and a finish that you want. A good style and finish can add a certain respectable elegance to your bathroom, but you want to make sure they don't clash with the rest of the bathroom, otherwise any positive effect will be lost by its seeming completely out of place. There are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of choices, and whatever style you decide to choose, you will want to make sure to consider if they fit into your bathroom, will function at maximum capacity, and also how easy they are to use. If they look nice that's all good and well, but if they're really hard to use, is it really worth it?

Also, a very important consideration with bathroom faucets is expense. Obviously you may find a bathroom faucet you love, but if it is three times the cost of your budget, then that's not going to work. There are some very basic bathroom faucets, and then there are very elegant, expensive bathroom faucets. Don't overspend--you can find plenty of good functional faucets that are also aesthetically pleasing for a reasonable price.

Build a Shower Pan - 5 Tips For Getting it Right

Build a shower pan the right way and it should prove leak-free for decades. However, getting it right can prove to be a big challenge. Partly that's because the key parts of a shower pan are mostly buried in the floor.

Shower Floors Leak -- Guaranteed

That's why a shower pan must be in the right place and installed properly. See, neither grout nor tile is enough to make for a waterproof shower floor. Sealer won't do it and neither will caulk. Leave out the important steps and the floor leaks.

Stop Mold This Way

It's more than water damage that goes behind leaks. Unchecked water, especially in wet walls and floors, becomes growing fields for harmful mold. That's why the proper shower pan is a must, to keep water out of places where you don't want it to be.

Shower pans keep all the moisture contained so the water makes it down the drain and not around the bath.

Liner Membrane Basics

A traditional shower project revolves around one key element. That primary piece is the liner membrane. Now all kinds of liners have been tried, but what is used most often now is a heavy sheet of special vinyl. That vinyl membrane gets placed within the floor of the shower and catches any and all water that gets beyond the floor itself.

The whole floor project exists to put the liner membrane in properly so it can most effectively catch all the water before it can do damage. The water stops there or there is a heavy price to pay.

Mortar Basics For Best Results

Masonry material makes up most of the bulk of the typical shower base. It's called mortar, but the mix consists of just sand, portand cement and water. Mixed in a standard recipe, the mix goes by the term, fat mud.

Mud forms two parts of the base. The lower part forms a sloped base that supports the liner membrane. The slope helps water do what it does, flow downhill.

The other layer goes right over the liner membrane. It forms a base too. Right over that layer goes the thinset and then the tile for the actual floor.

Shower Drains Are More Than You Can See

Getting the drain in place happens early and involves more than meets the eye. That's because tile shower drains catch water on two levels. One is the easy one, the one at floor level. The trick buried beneath the floor is the other drain attached to the liner membrane. That's one of the buried tricks to a drain with no leaks.

You build a shower pan step by step and a layer at a time. Key parts are the two mortar layers as well as the liner membrane and special drain. The job is often left to pros, but handy people often put in pans after they understand the key steps.

Hidden Protection - Under Counter Water Filters

With the purchase of water filters these days, under counter water filters are one that have seen sales steadily climbing. With water being the single most important fluid for personal health, the need for a safe filter cannot be denied. Just pay closer attention to the health reports put out; contamination in water supplies is steadily rising, whether it is due to bacteria, iron, chlorine, or any other toxin that might spoil it.

Water filters are one of the easiest and most economical solutions to health worries. While there are different varieties available, the units that attach to your sink can be cumbersome and ugly and most would much rather have something that does the job without that blight. For others, especially those with young children, it may be that turning a filter on and off is more of a chore than it should be, especially when they are in a rush. Under counter water filters offer a great solution, delivering the same quality and purity you expect from any water filter.

Unlike faucet filters, under counter filters attach to the water pipes directly. This means there is no on and off switch to remember, the water coming through the tap will be automatically filtered before it begins to fill your waiting glass. If you take the time to have one installed under each counter, you will be safeguarding your entire family's health.

How many times has your child come in from a hot day and gone to get a glass of water to cool off, or dunked his or her head in the sink to do the same? The average child is not concerned with his or her health, he or she isn't going to think of flipping a switch, and he or she is just likely to take the shortest possible route to chilling down. The peace of mind offered through an under counter water filter means you will not have to hover over your child, it will give them a sense of independence while still protecting them from harmful toxins.

If you are looking to purchase an under counter water filter, make sure you choose one that comes with all the parts needed for installation, and that includes instructions. Most filters include all this but it is best to double check; you don't want to climb under your sink and then realize you have to make another trip out for something that is missing from your kit. For those who do not have the patience to do the installation themselves, or just hate to follow instructions, calling in a professional might well be a good idea.

Decorating Ideas For Apartment Bathrooms - Part 2

In part two of this two part series, we offer some tips, advice, and ideas for decorating apartment bathrooms stylishly...

Furnishings

If you are choosing new plumbing fixtures, you can take advantage of lots of new ideas and innovations for a sleek, up-to-the-minute look. Modern ceramics are designed to fit effortlessly into small spaces, with smoothly rounded corners and flowing lines. Bathtubs are often molded around the body to narrow at each end, saving a vital few inches. Corner sinks, semi-inset sinks that can be set into a shelf, or inset sinks to drop into a countertop all offer clever design options. For extra floor space, choose a free-standing sink on a narrow pedestal, or a wall-mounted unit that leaves the floor free. Explore industrial and catering suppliers for high-tech steel sinks to set into a countertop or vanity unit.

Granite-effect kitchen countertops supplied by the yard or meter are perfect for apartment bathrooms. Fit a simple cupboard under the sink to stack away all your toiletries, and paint or stain it. Catering suppliers may have steel cupboards, too. If you need more storage space, slot glass or steel mesh shelves into an alcove, but keep die contents tidy and color-coordinated with the room.

Faucets and shower fixtures should be steel or chrome, rather than brass or gilt, and in contemporary, streamlined shapes; some sinks and bath faucets can be mounted on the wall, with a long, elegant spout to splash gracefully into a round basin below.

Close-coupled toilets have a neat, compact look. Alternatively, you could completely conceal a toilet tank behind a false wall, which you can top with a useful shelf. Many toilets have a seat and cover molded as part of the design.

Fit a heated towel rack instead of a standard radiator - choose stainless steel or white - so you can have a comfortable room plus warm, dry towels. Site a square or circle of mirror glass above the basin, or choose a mirror with a built-in magnifier or shaving point and light. If you fit shower doors rather than a curtain, look for plain, clear, or smoked glass; shower curtains can be clear plastic, or the brilliantly colored nylon used for yacht sails, eyeletted and threaded on a tension wire or curtain rod across the bathroom.

Curtains and fabric shades have too soft a look for an apartment bathroom; if you need to provide extra privacy, choose a simple roller blind in a plain color, a pleated blind, or narrow slatted Venetian blind in metal or wood.

Lighting should be discreet but effective. Low-voltage halogen spotlights in the ceiling are ideal, or paint simply shaped modern wall torcheres to match the walls, siting one on either side of the mirror; contemporary tracking spotlights are good for flexible lighting where you most want it, and look suitably high-tech.

Details

Details and accessories in an apartment-style bathroom are kept strictly to a minimum, and carefully chosen to flatter the style. Door handles and knobs have crisp, functional lines, or are ergonomically designed in sleek tapering shapes to fit your hand.

There is a wide range of accessories, ranging from towel bars and toilet-roll holders to soap dishes and tooth mugs, available in large home supply and specialty stores; these items add essential character to the room. Gleaming stainless steel or nickel looks sharp and clinical, contrasting well with frosted glass dishes and bowls in fresh citrus colors.

Pick up the color accents in towels, facecloths, and bathmats, or go for pure white fluffy towels contrasted with linen in taupe and gray for a neutral scheme.

Fun Ways to Improve Your Bathroom

We spent a fortune decorating our bedrooms and living areas yet one of the busiest rooms in the house is so often overlooked; that is your bathroom. Here are a few simple tips to bring your bathroom bang up to date at very little cost.

Most of us have bathroom fittings that are white, this gives is a gear opportunity to really go to town with the colors on the walls. The white will look even brighter and the contrast is brilliant.

This is where you can really let your artistic side take over. Although blues and green hue are popular, mix it up a bit with some designs you either paint yourself or use a pre cut stencil.

The whole look of your bathroom can be greatly improved at very little cost by replacing things such as hinged and knobs on cabinets and drawer and door handles. Just replacing these few pieces will give your room a stunning new look and give a richness to match your new decor.

Tiles are old favorites for designers, and a few well placed will giving a striking effect. Put them at the bottom of the wall around your tub or even a few small ones dotted around the walls at various heights and varying colors will give a really smart look to you bathroom.

Lighting is all important in a bathroom; you don't want it too bright or too dimmed. Show off your decor and feature by adding lights if necessary, or changing existing ones.

Lighting fixtures on the ceiling and walls give the best effects. There are many different kinds of fixtures and colors available so experiment and find your best options. If there is room, see about adding an extra window with sheer curtains to let more natural light flood in.

How to Fix a Drippy Faucet

The primary cause of faucet leaks or drips is a bad rubber washer. Sometimes the bad washer is accompanied by a bad faucet seat as well. In single handle faucets the cause is the same, the solution is different.

The small rubber parts that seal the water in your faucet wear out. They get crushed between the faucet stem and the seat over and over again, and as they age, they get crushed harder and harder as you tighten the knob tighter and tighter to make it stop dripping. Name brand newer faucets have attempted to solve this problem by making ever more complex stem systems, but they are nonetheless dependent on rubber seals to stop the water.

This article will address the older style, two handle faucets, and touch on the newer two handle styles as well. Single handled or lever type faucets will be looked at in a future article. 

Older two handled faucets use pretty much the same style of stems, all based on the Price Pfister design. There are variations, but the principle is the same. The knob is attached to the stem. When you turn the handle, the threaded stem moves up or down inside the faucet body.  

At the end of the stem is a rubber washer. When turned all the way in, the rubber washer seals against a brass seat which has a nice edge on it to ensure a good seal. Over time the rubber gets brittle and breaks, gets crushed so hard against the seat that it cuts, or just gets so pitted that it won't seal any more. 

To solve the leak you will need the following tools:

1.       A screw driver to remove the handle after gently prying out the button which covers the screw.

2.       An adjustable wrench to remove the stem.

3.       A faucet seat tool, available at most hardware stores for around $12.00. Pick it up when you go to get the parts.
 

Turn off the water by closing the angle stops under the sink. By turning off one side at a time, you will be able to determine which one leaks, but I always just replace them both.

Once the water is off, open both hot and cold sides to bleed off any water still in the lines, then remove the knobs. I always put the screws in the knobs and set them away from the sink.

Next you will remove the stems using the adjustable wrench and turning counter clockwise. Be sure to save the nylon washers which seal the nut to the faucet body.
 

Once you have the stem out, you can look at the rubber washer on the end. Notice how it's all messed up? Next stick your pinky finger down into the hole the stem came out of. You will notice a rimmed seat the rubber closes against. The top edge of the seat should be smooth. If it is rough or has chips in it, you'll need to replace the seat too. 

 
Inspect the end of the stem. If the brass is damaged, you will need to buy a new stem. If this is a newer model faucet, the rubber will be facing up and caged inside the stem assembly, and the stem closes against the rubber. In that case there is no seat. 

 
In plastic faucets, there are a number of different stem designs, but once they start to drip, you basically need to replace the stem cartridge.

 
In all three cases, I recommend you take the old parts with you to the hardware store, in order to ensure you get the right parts.
 

When you get back, reassemble the faucet in the reverse order. If you need to replace the seats, they come out by inserting the tool through the hole in the middle and turning counter clockwise. For some reason they always seem to have been installed by Hercules. When you put the new ones in, make sure they are set tight.
 

After reassembly, remove the aerator from the end of the faucet arm. Then turn on the water and check to see that the drip is cured. Let the water run for a minute while you clean the aerator. Reinstall the aerator after it is clean.

 
Now you know how to fix a drippy faucet! You don't have to pay a plumber or handyman to do it for you. You have saved $80 or $100 or so, so you should be proud of yourself. Now you can splurge on a new pair of shoes or a new fishing pole.

Plumbing Tip - Fixing an Outdoor Leak

If you have noticed a large increase in your monthly water bill, there is a good chance that you may have a water leak somewhere in your plumbing system. Now there are of course several other potential causes for a high water bill. Things like runny toilets or leaky faucets are all common culprits as well. However, in this article, we will discuss the case where the increase in water usage is due to an outdoor leak.

There are a variety of things that could cause an outdoor leak at a home and while this is not particularly difficult to repair, it is one of the most intimidating problems for the average home-owner to solve on their own. Here are a few tips to help you diagnose and repair a problem like this in the event that you are faced with this problem.

1. Trace the main waterline from the meter to your home. If you walk along the path that your main water line travels as it makes its way from your water meter at the street to the interior of your home, you will most likely encounter a portion of the ground that is much wetter and softer than the rest of the yard. Now obviously you will need to wait to do this test if you have had recent rain but in general this is a great way to locate a potential leak. Once you find the leak you will need to dig up the ground at and around the center of the moist area.

2. Locate the leak. Once you have located the leak after digging up the earth around the pipe you can then begin the repair process.

3. Turn the water off at the main shutoff valve at the street. You should be able to take a pair of pliers(or your bare hands) and turn the valve at the water meter to shut off the water to your home. Once you have shut off the water you can cut the pipe around the leak and make the repair.

4. Use a compression coupling to replace the damaged part of the water line. Now for the purposed of this article I have assumed that you have PVC/CPVC pipes carrying water into your home. While this is certainly not the case for everyone this will be true for the majority of homes built in the last 20 years. A compression coupling can be purchased at any local hardware store and is very easy to attach to the the water line.

5. Turn the water back on and test the repair. Once you complete the installation of the compression coupling you will want to turn the water on and let it run for a day or so. Come back and make sure that there are no leaks after 24 hours and then re-bury the water line.

If you follow these simple steps you should be able to successfully fix an outdoor plumbing leak.

Avoid These Bathroom Renovation Blunders!

Renovation experts say you should renovate your bathroom every 17.9 years. Our house is 18 years old and it is time to renovate the guest bathroom. We started a picture file and narrowed the ideas down to the ones we liked best. Then we met with the construction representative. "We'll have to talk about this," he said, following us upstairs to the bathroom.

After looking around, he told us why some ideas should be deleted. We chose renovation ideas that matched our budget. Two weeks later the representative returned with product photos, design specs, and costs. This experience has made us more aware of bathroom renovation blunders.

1. Lighting that is too high or too low. By today's standards my husband and I are short people. A few years ago we installed a new brushed nickel light over the vanity mirror. "It's a beautiful light, but I can't see myself," the representative said. We could see our faces but he could not because he was the same height as the light. The company will remount the light to correct this blunder.

2. Mis-matched lighting and faucets. To save money we are having our existing maple vanity raised a few inches. According to the representative, bathrooms with matched faucets and lighting look best. We are installing a brushed nickel faucet to go with the vanity light. Wodden drawer knobs will be replaced with brushed nickel ones.

3. Choosing the wrong vanity mirror. You may find inexpensive mirrors at home and discount stores. The mirrors may be attractive, but may not go with your home. We bought new towel bars and a matchng mirror for our guest bathroom.

4. Hard to clean tile. Because I love mosaics (I made them in my college days) I chose glass mosaic tile for the tub surround. They would look lovely, the representative said, but so much grout would be hard to keep clean and mold-free. We chose larger tiles for the tub surround.

5. Trendy colors. Colors that were popular years ago, like aqua and brown, are back in style again. These colors may not be in style when you need to sell your home. That is why realtors recommend neutral colors. We chose tan and creme to keep our house market ready.

6. Inadequate water heater. The National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) says you should check the capacity of your water heater. "If you are going to add a large jetted tub to your project, consider adding a water heater dedicated to that tub," advises NARI.

7. Old, inadequate ventilation. Though your bathroom fan works, it may not ventilate well. Spending money on a new ceiling fan is money well spent. Avoiding all of these blunders will ensure a successful and long-lasting bathroom renovation. Just think of all the time you spend there!

Copyright 2007 by Harriet Hodgson

Master Plumber Shares Water Leak Secrets With Everyone

I wouldn't consider myself to be a master plumber, but I'm going to share with you, some of the information that I've learned from a few master plumbers over the years. These guys are the true pros of the industry and rarely share any of their secrets with anyone, but I got them to tell me some of their trade secrets with me.

I'm not going to tell you how I got these secrets from them, but it did involve some alcohol and a couple of sandwiches. Very few master tradesmen share their secrets with anyone that they don't trust or respect. Working in the construction industry for over three decades has gained me the respect from more than one master plumber.

Okay here's the secret that you've all been waiting for," Hand tighten everything." Now wait a minute, that's it, isn't there anything else. That's the master plumbing secret that we've been waiting for, to hands tightened everything, come on there's got to be more.

Well there is more, but that's going to be in another article, somewhere else in the future. If you're serious about eliminating water leaks from your plumbing drains and water supply lines, you should hand tighten everything and then check for leaks.

I can't tell you how many times I grabbed a pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench to tighten a sink drain or toilet supply line, only to find out that I had applied too much pressure and now water is leaking all over the place.

Master plumbers and other master tradesmen rarely share secrets, but this one is easy to grasp. The value of this secret is priceless. The next time that you have a water leak or are assembling any plumbing products, don't over tighten any plumbing parts and it won't be long, before you are the master plumber in your house.

Keep Your Sewer Lines Flowing

Every house has them, yet most people ignore them until something goes wrong. They are your drain and sewer lines. These pipes help carry waste water out of your home, through your yard, and eventually to the city sewer system or your own septic tank and field. Keeping these lines clean and flowing well is an essential part to keeping your home in good shape, and your family healthy.

Drain lines run through the walls or floors, then into the ground beneath your home. When these lines are functioning well, water drains quickly. But drains become clogged with accumulated hair, food, grease, soap scum, even things like straws and silverware. Eventually the drain will not drain at all, breeding disease and opening your home up for flooding.

Even a relatively small flood can cause flooring and drywall damage. Unfortunately this type of preventable disaster is not covered by many homeowners insurance policies. If you have a slow running drain call for and Atlanta plumbing repair professional. A qualified plumber can clean your drains using safe plumbing products and techniques.

In addition to these drain lines, plumbing lines run beneath your home, out into your yard. These sewer lines can become blocked for many reasons such as tree roots, an improperly installed line, or perhaps there is construction debris stuck in it. If your floor drains back up, then you probably have such a blockage under your house or within your yard. It is imperative that you call a plumber immediately if you experience such a drain back up.

Experts can run an electric snake through your lines, with a rotating cutting blade. The snake cuts away roots that have pushed their way into pipes, ensuring that the drain will flow while you arrange a more permanent pipe repair. Sometimes, the snake will find that a collection of solid debris has simply built up, and can clear it easily. When necessary, technology allows your Atlanta plumber to run a small, fiber optic camera down the line, revealing any problems.

Homes with septic systems are susceptible to more problems. Septic systems move waste into a septic tank, where enzymes break down the solid wastes, floating the liquids to the top to leach out into the drain field. There, they seep into the soil, making room for more liquid waste to leave the tank. If the organic balance in the septic tank is not maintained, solids may not be broken down and can leak out into the field, resulting in a clogged field, and liquid waste backing up into the home, costing thousands of dollars to repair.

Prevent this by adding a monthly enzyme supplement to your system and having your septic tank pumped every few years. With plumbing drain lines, a simple slow running drain, if caught early, can be repaired before causing significant damage. As with most things in life, catching a problem early, and having a professional take care of it, it the best step towards keeping your sewer lines flowing well. This will ensure that your family home remains clean, dry and healthy.

How to Install a Vessel Sink

As the popularity of vessel sinks has grown, so has the number of beautifully hand-crafted products that practically demand exhibition. By sitting entirely above-counter, vessel sinks can be displayed for their beauty as well as their functionality. The great thing about vessel sinks is they are not reserved for use in any one type of bathroom. Modern designs, conservative spaces, rustic décor and everything in between can all be enhanced by a vessel sink. Thus, the aesthetic this type of sink accommodates is rather extensive.

A vessel can be installed sitting on the countertop ("above counter mounting) or it can be sunk down up to a third or even half of its height. Some vessels are actually a hybrid of a drop-in style sink and a vessel - i.e. they are designed to partially sit above the countertop.

For an above counter installation, you will need a hole that is large enough to accommodate the drain assembly. This is the plumbing hardware that allows the sink to drain the water. If the bottom of your vessel is flat, then the installation is straightforward. The only thing we would recommend is a bead of silicone under the sink and around the edge to prevent water on the countertop from working its way underneath the vessel. If the vessel has a rounded shape - as with most glass vessel sinks - you have two options. You can either use a vessel mounting ring (sometimes these are provided with the sink) or you will need to provide a mounting hole directly in the countertop.

Mounting rings for vessel sinks can be easily found at most home centers or online. They usually come in several finishes that you can match to your faucet and drain. A vessel mounting ring elevates the sink from the countertop and helps with the stability and seal of the sink.

Due to design considerations, a mounting ring is not always desirable. If you want to mount the vessel directly into the countertop, you will need a hole that is at least 3" in diameter with a beveled edge in the countertop material to accommodate the shape of the bowl. You may want the hole to be more in the range of 5" - 6" if the vessel is larger for stability. Use clear silicone to provide cushion and stability when mounting the sink. If you want to lower the level of the sink you can simply enlarge the hole. The larger the hole, the more stability you will achieve in the installation. To experiment with the size of the hole, use a piece of cardboard. Start with a smaller size - say 3" - and work your way up. This will give you a visual as to how far down the vessel will be relative to the counter throughout the size range that you choose. Be sure to keep the height of the faucet you have chosen in mind when making these decisions.

Whichever mounting method you use, you will want to install the drain in the vessel before installing the sink to the counter surface. Drains for vessel sinks come in two basic configurations. Does your vessel have an overflow? If so, you will need a standard drain. However, most vessel sinks do not have an overflow and will need a "vessel style drain". Vessel drains come in many different styles and finishes. These drains do not have a "pop up" assembly. Some are referred to as "grid drains" (referring to the "grid configuration" on the top of the drain). Grid drains were designed to let the water flow out of the basin but catch larger objects from heading down the drain.

A special caution for glass vessel sinks. If you are installing a glass vessel, be sure to provide a cushion between the glass and the counter. This can simply be a bead of silicone or you may want to line the hole in your counter with a small piece of rubber material. In addition, be sure that you don't over tighten the drain assembly. Hand tighten only and follow the manufacturer's instructions. The breakage we see with glass vessels is usually associated with an improper installation of the drain.

To see hundreds of artisan crafted and designer vessel sinks, please visit Sinks Gallery. You will find not only glass vessel sinks, but sinks in granite, marble, onyx, copper, bronze, hand painted ceramic and even wood. Or simply call them 1-877-320-0800. They will be happy to answer any other questions you might have.