Thursday, June 10, 2010

Towel Radiator - Warm Towels and Dehumidify the Bathroom

When a person thinks of a bathroom, dry is not usually the first word that comes to mind. You have a humid, wet place with plenty of slick surfaces. When the shower or bath is not in use it can sometimes be a rather cold place, especially in the morning. However, a towel radiator can give you heat and at the same time dry your towels to a comfortable aridness.

First made popular in European hotels, a towel radiator functions as both a towel rack and as a towel dryer, the towel radiator is increasingly popular in the U.S. It slowly and gently radiates heat that dries and warms towels as they hang out. This can greatly reduce the time needed for a just recently wet rag to dry out as well as give it a comforting feel the next time it is needed.

You can find a towel radiator at a bathroom or sometimes at a plumbing store. Be prepared to take out the wallet, however; a good radiator can cost as much as a $1,000 or more depending upon model and design. This is definitely a luxury item and many people will decide that they are comfortable waiting for the dryer to finish.

If you decide that the luxury is something you want, however, then you can still get a relative bargain. Before purchasing a unit, check out its BTU consumption and EPA power ratings. As they are designed to be used in a bathroom most are safely designed. Still, it does not hurt to look at the instructions and follow all safety tips to the letter.

Maintenance and repair is also an issue. As a towel radiator is a radiator, it will occasionally need to be bled for excess water and air. If you are comfortable with the task, you can often get a radiator key and attend to the job yourself when the rings are not getting as hot as they should get. Before bleeding the system, however, you should make sure to disconnect the unit from the heating system. Not doing so could let air in the moment you let the air back out, resulting in a zero sum game.

Towel radiators are expensive items, but the luxury that they provide is a must for some people. Proper shopping can hold down costs, and occasional DIY maintenance can help even more. With that effort you can be rewarded with warm, dry sheets the moment you step out of the shower.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Filtering Unit For Removing Odor From Plumbing Vent Pipes Are Alike And Different

Filtering units for removing odor from plumbing vent pipes, most often referred to as stink pipes by plumbers, are the best solution age old problem of stink coming out of the plumbing/septic tank roof vent. The vent is design to release gas to the outside air so the waste water can flow down the drains. What are the differences between the various manufacturers? They are all similar in appearance with the outer shell made of PVC and ABS design. Sweetfilter was epoxy coated Black. Sweetfilter, VentPure, and Peacemaker show they are registered. Sweetstack has one way off and on valves and cannot be sold in Minnesota. OdorHog is now available with solar powered exhaust fan. Is that an added part to fail? VentPure and SweetAir units have rain cap because their chemical medias must be protected from moisture.

All chemical medias are a mixture of Carbon with other additives. You have to check the chemistry, or be a chemist, to see which is really the best chemical. What the home owner is looking for is a chemical media whose primary target is Hydrogen Sulfide. Hydrogen Sulfide produces that rotten egg odor that any home owner is familiar with if they have any type plumbing problem. The secondary problem is the Ammonia which produces the urine odor.

The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office is only place to search to find if a design is patented or a brand name is registered. Only Sweetfilter is registered with The United States Patent and Trademark Office. There are no other sewer/septic tank odor eliminator vent filter units registered!

VentPure and Peacemaker were registered in individual States only. Any brand name that has a registered Trademark in a State only, can be copied in another State. In Federal Court you cannot protect your brand name unless you have registered it in The United States Patent and Trademark Office.

Sweetstack, OdorHog, VentPure, Peacemaker, and SweetAir filtering units are made primarily with the common chemical mixtures for removing odor from plumbing vent pipes and can never get a Federal Registration. Sweetstack and SweetAir have Sweet in their name. Sweetfilter is registered, Sweetstack and SweetAir cannot be registered in The U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

What unit is best? What unit should you the home owner purchase to install? Sweetfilter, Sweetstack, OdorHog, VentPure, Peacemaker, and SweetAir are all similar, but are all different, only you the home owner can make the finial decision. You want your filter to operate like a odor eliminator on your roof top vent, most often referred to as a stink pipe, You want the smell to be gone!

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Emergency Plumbers

Almost everyone who lives in a house with plumbing, at some point of time, has had plumbing emergencies. These could range from a simple leaky faucet in your kitchen to ankle deep water in your bedroom, to clogged drains, leaky pipes, malfunctioning water heaters.

To prevent such problems and keep the home running smoothly, the one thing we all need is information on plumbers or companies who specialize in dealing with such emergencies. These are the people who will provide quick and efficient service when needed.

The rates for these emergency services can range form $40 upward. It depends on the extent of the work required and the material and manpower involved. Plumbers would ideally come under two broad categories -- commercial and industrial. Commercial plumbers cover private homes and both public and private offices, and industrial plumbers cover factories and large manufacturing units.

There are companies who tackle only drains and sewers. Drain Brain, Blast-off Sewer and Drain Service, ECONO Sewer and Drain Cleaning Service, Professional Sewer and Drain Cleaning to name a few. They all offer good rates for services, a payment option of your choice, fast and efficient service, free estimates, discounts, and various other attractive offers. Some even have uniformed personnel and a central control room for quick responses.

There are others who offer home improvement services, updating of old pipe systems and fitting of new faucets and other attachments and maintenance contracts for yearly maintenance at attractive rates. Some of the players are: Rozza Plumbing, Pleasure In The Job, All In A Day's Work, ASAP Sewer & Drain Service, Dial-A-Sewer-Man and Island Plumbing & Heating Supply CORP Inc. Or, of course, you could look up the ones closest to you in the Yellow Pages or the Internet. Most of them are professional and you can trust them to fix your plumbing troubles in no time at all!

Monday, June 7, 2010

Plumbing Tips - Inspection

It is clearly important to be able to gain access to all parts of the underground drains. This is usually done by providing inspection chambers at various points. To meet the Building Regulations, chambers have to be provided: at junctions between drains; where the drain changes direction or gradient; at or near the beginning of the drain; and at intervals of not more than 45m on long, straight runs. In between the inspection chambers, the drains should be laid in straight lines.

The usual form of an inspection chamber has sides made of brick, often cement-rendered either on the inside or the outside. At the base of the hole are open channels to which the drains are connected and along which the water in the drains runs.

The inspection chamber is at a junction between three drains. The branch drain is connected to the main one with a specially shaped half-channel bend which is swept in the direction of the flow of water through the main channel.

The channels are built up with benching - smoothly finished concrete shaped to direct any splashes back into the channels. The top of an inspection chamber is covered with a manhole cover a heavy, cast-iron plate set in a cast-iron frame. If there is a manhole cover within a building it usually has to be screwed down to the frame and the joint sealed with grease.

With modern drain materials, it may not be necessary to have full-scale inspection chambers at all junctions and bends in the drain. Instead, rodding points may be used. Small circular inspection chambers may also be fitted.

A rodding point has a length of pipe with a gentle bend connected at an angle to the drain. The other end of the pipe leads to ground level and is covered with a suitable removable cover. If the drain needs unblocking, the cover is removed and drain rods passed down into the drain. Rodding points are small and neat - unlike large, ugly manhole covers - but some inspection chambers may still be needed.

In older properties, the inspection chamber at the boundary of the property may have an interceptor trap fitted at the outlet of the channel. To gain access to the length of drain between the trap and the main sewer, the trap has its own rodding arm which bypasses the U-bend. The rodding arm is fitted with a stopper (sometimes secured with a chain) to prevent the drain water from bypassing the U-bend, too.

This inspection chamber may also be ventilated by means of a short pipe projecting above ground from the side of the chamber. The pipe is usually fitted with a grilled ventilator, behind which is a flap. The theory is that the flap allows fresh air into the drain but prevents foul air from escaping. Ventilators are probably more of a hindrance than a help, and damaged ones can be removed completely rather than repaired. Interceptor traps also give problems the rodding arm stopper can fall out and cause a blockage in the trap if it is not suspended by a chain.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Bathroom Remodel Designing - Use Up the Space Carefully

Bathroom remodel design is the best option to give your bathroom a creative look by making careful use of all the space inside it. Some people even resort to breaking walls of the room to make it even more spacious. Remodeling a bathroom means to make effectively re-design the walls and avoid breaking up of the walls and using the existing space to the full. It also involves making use of attractive floorings and proper organization of the sanitary ware and toiletries to make it look appealing.

The idea is to use the existing space intelligently to maximize the space usage because not all bathrooms are large in area. You should double check if you want to just do minor room re-designing or give a totally new look to the room. You need to plan out well before starting to do any remodel design work. It would be a great idea to plan out the remodeling by thinking about all the small details like how high you want the cabinet and shelves inside the room what should be the color and design of the new tiles, how would you organize the toiletries, how would you go about decorating the wall of the room.

Bathroom remodel designing may take several days. In such a case, you may have to use the bath while it is under repair. Hence, you must prioritize your work and initiate the work in such a way that you will be able to use the room at a certain time of the day while you carry on with the repairing work. Before you take up a remodeling contract to redesign your computer, you must find out the price estimate of the work that has to be done on the room. You must also check the requirements of the new materials that are needed for repairing your bathroom. You can do this by simply keeping a tab of things like paint, plumbing materials, ventilating options, tiling, appliances, materials for making cabinets and shelves.  The idea is to go for good quality items rather than cheap ones if you are not looking forward to re-construct your bathroom in the future for a long time.

Unlike before, people now not only like to get refreshed in their bathroom but also get entertained while taking shower or refreshing. Hence, installing a plasma television with a DVD player and a sound system can be a great idea to get you entertained. If you would like to remodel your bathroom design in such a way, it is advisable to mount the speakers inside the ceiling or the walls of the room.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

New Combi Boiler Installation - 14 Steps to Avoid For The Cowboys!

There is lots to consider when you are considering a new boiler installation. This guide will take you through the process from start to finish. This is quite a difficult task describing in words what a Gas Safe engineer does every day. Not all of the points will be relevant to your particular installation but this guide will at least give you an idea of what to expect from your new boiler and what to expect from an installer coming to your house.

Things to consider:
- Your budget - grants, loans and other schemes
- Finding an installer - getting 3 quotes
- The current water pressure of your system
- Your current system - layout/design and condition, boiler siting
- Your hot water demand - bathrooms, ensuites etc
- Choosing a boiler
- Upgrading your pipework - gas and water pipework
- Adding a MagnaClean
- Adding thermostatic radiator valves/room thermostat
- Adding additional radiators
- Powerflusing your system or flushing your system
- Commissioning your system
- Filling in the benchmark/notifying building control
- Advising the customer on how to get the best efficiency from their boiler
- Installers working to best practice

Your budget - grants, loans and other schemes

There are lots of schemes available depending on your circumstances. The new Boiler Scrappage Scheme is available to all households in England who have a G rated boiler in their home. It gives £400 towards the cost of a new boiler installation. There is also a scheme called the Warm Front Scheme which provides upto £3500 towards home heating and insulation improvements. To be eligible you must be on some sort of benefit or be a low income household. It is normally a bad idea to finance your boiler installation using a credit card or bank loan. Although there are cost benefits to be gained by having a new condensing boiler these will be eaten up by repaying the loan. If your current boiler is in good working order and you are worried about it breaking down then a British Gas homecare agreement is advisable at around £19 per month. An Npower agreement which offers less benefits is also available at around £7.99 per month.

Finding an installer - getting 3 quotes

You should aim for 3 quotes. This is more than adequate to get a good idea of what you want. Each individual engineer will give you different ideas on how best to go forward. They will also have their own favourite boilers and methods of working. It is a good idea to bounce ideas and questions around to ascertain whether the engineer is actually competent in the field he will be required to work within. Unfortunately there are lots of newly qualified plumbers and gas engineers in this industry and although they are perfectly safe and 'passed off' to work they may not be a) able to advise you of the most efficient method going forward, b) advise you completely wrongly or c) not actually have an answer. Sometimes it may be difficult to find someone you trust; after all, this will be a huge investment.

Often using the yellow pages can be a bad idea. So can using someone who posts leaflets through the door. The best and trusted method will always be by personal recommendation. Asking the engineer lots of questions can also give you some degree of confidence. Checking their Gas Safe registration should also be a priority. Unfortunately there are lots of illegal gas engineers operating and these people are putting lives at risk. Checking someones gas safe registration is very easy. Ask to see a Gas Safe registration card. Every engineer carries a card and it amazes me that 99.5% of customers do not ask for ID. Every engineer should be proud of their qualifications and love to show them off. Do not be shy and in future make a point of it.

Once you have got your 3 quotes you need to analyse what you are getting. Quotes should be broken down as much as possible. This will give you an idea of what exactly you are paying. I don't understand how companies can justify listing a load of materials and specifications and then adding a figure. Costs should be fixed price costs whether you are a millionnaire or on a very low budget;)

It is best to get a written contract for your own benefit. If the company doesn't offer one then you can easily draw one up. This will protect against faults that might develop later on after the system has been installed. If installed to best practice and following all manufacturers instructions then a central heating system will only rarely breakdown due to a manufacturer component fault. That is why respected installers offer a personal guarantee on all their work, this can be upto 5 years but 3 years is normal. This is alongside normal manufacturer guarantees which can be upto 5 years parts and labour. Other ways of finding an installer can be the internet however personal recommendation is always the best method.

The current water pressure of your system

Its very important to measure your mains water pressure to ascertain whether a combi will actually work. You might not have enough pressure for a combi system to work so this will need to be measured. A competent engineer will make sure that this is one of the first things he does. If you do have low pressure then your installation options will be limited. One example is when a mains pressure of 0.8bar from a customers property is measured. A certain Vaillant boiler which gives their full hot water output at just 0.5bar would be recommended by any competent engineer. This means that this boiler would be one of a very few boilers that could be considered for this customers property. It could have been a costly mistake not testing the mains water pressure and this is one reason why this should be done as standard. Having said all of the above, problems are very very rare. Your water company can advise on what your water pressure is likely to be if you are concerned. If for say you live on a very big hill you may have reasons for concern.

Your current system - layout/design and condition, boiler siting

Your current situation could have a large affect on cost of installation. Moving a boiler can add considerable expense as routing pipework can often be very tricky. Moving a boiler nearer the gas meter can sometimes cost the same as a straight swap. This is because the gas meter pipework upgrade will require less materials and less labour. Although some re-routing of water pipes will be required. If you need to upgrade from a system to a combi boiler this will be the costliest combi boiler installation. The system layout and pipework will need altering. The hot water cylinder and tanks in the loft will need removing. If you have a back boiler this will add time and expense on as well.

This can sometimes be difficult to remove as may cause the chimney to weaken. Your installer would be able to advise whether the removal of the back boiler is best left to a contracted a builder. If there is going to be new pipework in your property then it is desirable to have this under the floorboards and out of site. It makes for a better, cleaner job. Beware of companies wishing to take shortcuts or indeed charging more for lifting carpets and floorboards. There are strict rules governing where pipes are laid in joists. The size of notches can weaken joists and limits are set for this reason. It is simply unacceptable to hang pipes loose - even pipes containing water. Floorboards should be screwed back into place and not nailed as this will just cause the floorboard to loosen over time. Carpets and other fittings should be left as found. It is normally the customers responsibility to move furniture and other items that are in the way. This is due to responsibility issues. Common sense should always prevail of course.

If you have concrete floors then this can add alot of expense as digging into the floor can be costly. The pipes will then need to be wrapped to ensure the concrete does not perforate them and this ultimately causes a leak under your floor. Fixing this leak will mean you having to re-dig the concrete and replacing the pipework. If done correctly and in accordance with manufacturers instructions its a very simple task. An engineer who is not in the know as regards to regulations can cause severe problems. Boiler siting can also cause problems sometimes. New condensing boilers may cause pluming issues and this can cross neighbour boundaries. Pluming kits are available and can eradicate this problem. Boiler flue terminal positions can also be a problem but these will be rare. The terminal needs to be a minimum 30cm away from window or door openings to stop products of combustion re-entering the property. If there is no other alternative than to put your boiler next to a window that is not in use then it will either need blocking up, ie cementing and bricking up or it will need screws put in so that it cannot open. Although the latter method is within the scope of the regulations it would be recommended better bricking it up.

Your hot water demand - bathrooms, ensuites etc

Even the lowest output of boiler (eg a 24KW) can, if installed correctly, cope with up to 14 radiators. When determining which boiler will suit your needs you should do some research on boiler hot water output capacities. Some smaller output boilers will deliver in the region of say 9 litres of water per minute at a certain temperature. Bigger models will produce 16 litres and more. This difference will be the difference between an ok shower or a very powerful shower. It will also affect how long a bath takes to fill up. You will also see an impact if you have two bathrooms ie a main bathroom and an ensuite bathroom. Larger sized boilers will just be able to cope with two showers used simultaneously. Smaller boilers will definitely not. You need to consider how this will affect you. Further advice can be given by your chosen installer.

Choosing a boiler

Choosing a boiler can be difficult. There are so many boilers out there that only an expert can guide you through your needs and match them up with a suitable boiler. The better makes of boiler are Viessmann, Worcester and Valliant although some of the models from these manufacturers have been horrendous. These will be the earlier models and any expert will know which models to steer well clear of. The Viessmann 100 model (earlier model) has teething problems but everything has been resolved now and this is one of the leading models on the market if not the best. Of course every engineer will have his/her own preferences but if you go to any forum in the UK and ask if the Viessmann boilers are any good I will guarantee you wont get an expert saying anything against them.

Boilers can typically range in price from £400 (B&Q) to £1400 (top Vaillant model) Although the £400 one will last for years and years if installed properly it is open to debate whether this boiler will last 10 years and even if it does, how much money you will have to spend on repairs? A great budget boiler is the Glowworm Betacom 24KW. For the price it represents very good value. It will depend on your budget and what you feel comfortable. It is always advisable to get quotes for different boilers and you can see for yourself prices differences. The price of the boiler will include all guarantees and if there are any issues with faulty manufacturer parts etc your installer will be responsible for this. Buying your own boiler and getting an installer to fit it can present many problems.

For example, is the boiler you are buying relatively new? It may look new, ie unopened packaging etc but it may have been sitting in a garage for 2 years. If a boiler is not installed within one year of its manufacture date it will void any warranty. Also, if any components are missing from your boiler then you will be ultimately responsible for lost time and expense. Most installers will not work this way for the above reasons as they simply do not know the history of the boiler and if a component fails after the boiler has been fitted it could cause significant problems.

Your installer will match your needs to a suitable boiler

Upgrading your pipework - gas and water pipework

Gas pipework used to be run in 15mm from the meter to the boiler. There are new rules which mean that pipework must be upgraded to 22mm as new condensing boilers are required to run on 22mm copper pipework. If the routing is simple then this can be a simple job. Sometimes carpets need to be lifted and pipework will go under floorboards. A lot of companies have fixed prices for pipework alterations and this includes fittings to give you an idea of price and labour charges.

All pipework should be clipped, there are regulations governing clipping distances for gas pipework. Pipework should always be secured and must be sleeved if passing through a cavity wall. One end must be sealed also. Your installer will bring you up to speed if you do have any concerns. If you are going from a system boiler to a combi boiler there will be lots of extra work including altering pipework and removing tanks and cylinders. This will mean more space in your airing cupboard and loft space.

Adding a MagnaClean

Some companies will not fit and guarantee their work if you do not agree to having a MagnaClean fitted. This additional work can be carried out for a very reasonable price as they would be already carrying out work in the property. More information can be found by clicking on the MagnaClean website. Unfortunately new condensing boiler have very weak heat exchangers and the MagnaClean will save them from getting damaged. This is why most companies insist on every customer having one installed.

Adding thermostatic radiator valves/room thermostat

Adding thermostatic radiator valves can significantly reduce your heating bills. It allows each radiator to be controlled individually. Why have the heat on in the whole house when you only need it in one? It is recommend not turning a valve completely off but setting it to 1. Adding TRV's will in the long run save you lots of money and can be very cheap to install. Some companies will have offers when supplying and fitting these. Energy efficiency should be promoted whenever.

A room stat or a programmable room stat is a legal requirement. Your installer will advise what the best option for you is. A wireless stat will be more expensive but there is the advantage of no visible wiring.

Adding additional radiators

If you need to add additional radiators it is best to add these while having a new boiler installed. It will more than likely be cheaper. Some of your radiators may be undersized or very old and you should consider upgrading these.

Powerflusing your system or flushing your system

There is a huge difference between powerflushing your central heating system or just flushing your system. Powerflusing involves higher pressure and circulates fresh water and special chemicals around your system. It is normally needed on older systems as sludge and dirt builds up over years and years. This will mean that you either have cold spots or not very hot radiators. Having fresh water in a system means water can be heated up to the maximum pressure the boiler will allow and will mean hotter radiatiors which in turn means more efficiency. A powerflush is not a legal requirement when replacing your boiler but it is advisable. When a powerflush is taken with a boiler installation discounts can be given.

Normal cold and hot water flushing is a requirement when a boiler is installed. Cleanser and inhibitor is added. A hot and cold flush must be done in order to work to best practice. New boilers do not like any dirt in the system, heat exchangers can get very 'clogged' up and the cost of replacement can be very great.

Commissioning your system

Things that should be included in your installation and are considered best practise:

1. Flushing with Fernox or Sentinel product/filling with inhibitor from same
2. Roomstat/programmer, TRV's (best practise, recommended)
3. Balancing and commissioning according to manufacturers instructions, important so as not to invalidate warranty.
4. Decommisioning of old boiler, tanks and all waste materials associated with installation
5. Making good eg. new and old flue openings
6. Completion of Benchmark log book, important.
7. Notification of new boiler to Building Control
8. At least 3 years guaranteed on pipework and associated fitting (the boiler manufacturer will have their own guarantees.)

The above should be in writing to protect your expensive new purchase.

Filling in the benchmark/notifying building control

Filling in the benchmark and notifying building control is part of commissioning process and a legal requirement. Pressures and temperatures need to be taken to ensure the system is correctly configured. Not filling out the benchmark and not notifying building control may cause problems if you ever decide to sell your property as proof the boiler was installed by a competent person will be required.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Fundamentals of Kitchen Plumbing

Does kitchen plumbing give you nightmares? The kitchen is probably one of the busiest parts of your home especially if your family loves to eat and cook. The kitchen sink is frequently used making it more prone to leaks, damages and other plumbing problems. If you frequently experience these problems in your kitchen and you always have to call a plumber to take care of your plumbing needs, then you have probably spent a huge amount of money for these plumbers' service charges.

If you want to reduce your kitchen plumbing expenses, you should consider learning the fundamentals of kitchen plumbing. This will enable you to take care of the problem as soon as it occurs and fix it in no time. Aside from the money you have saved from the plumber's charges, you will also save some of your precious time because you don't have to wait for the plumber to arrive and you can do the repairs as soon as possible.

For someone who has no idea about plumbing and home system, this task could be a bit freaky. But simple kitchen plumbing is easy and almost anyone who has the capability to read, understand, and follow instructions could do it. There are lots of kitchen plumbing manuals and handbooks that you could read and study in order to gain necessary knowledge and basic information about how kitchen plumbing system works.

Kitchen plumbing mainly includes water supply, faucet fixture, and drain system. These are the main components of your kitchen sink. Generally, the kitchen sink is the only part of the kitchen that requires simple plumbing works like repairs and replacements. The dishwasher is usually connected with the kitchens water supply system and drainage for letting clean water in and taking dirty water out.

The water comes in and goes out through pipes. These pipes are part of the water supply system. The pipes run under the kitchen floor and sometimes in the wall. The vent pipes regulate the pressure in the drain. The soil stack is a pipe that can serve as a drain pipe and pull wastes down or a vent pipe to release gasses outside. You can find a valve usually located under the sink that will let you control and regulate the water supply for the kitchen.

Your home plumbing system could consist of many kinds and types of pipes. The plumbing system of a simple kitchen only consists of some supply pipes and a drain pipe. The supply pipes could lead to the main kitchen faucet, dishwasher, and other appliances that need water supply. These appliances usually share on one drain pipe to take dirty water or wastes out of your house.

This basic information could help you learn and understand your kitchen's plumbing system. This will enable you to understand the kitchen plumbing problems. You will be able to determine the cause of such problems and you will be able to find a way or a solution that will fix the problem. The kitchen has a simple plumbing system which means that if something goes wrong, the plumbing job would also be easy for you.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Plumbing Problems May Require a Plumbing Contractor

Plumbing is something everyone must deal with, whether finding a plumbing contractor for new construction, a remodeling project, or just providing plumbing repair.

When Do I Need to Call a Plumbing Contractor?

Some common problems found with plumbing include:
Rattling pipes; may be caused by several factors, most commonly because they are not sufficiently secured or strapped to the wall frame. The pipes may need to be properly secured.
Slow drains; may be partially clogged. If a kitchen sink, the dishwasher may be improperly plumbed. The drain may need to be unclogged, or the dishwasher plumbing corrected.
Loss of hot water when another faucet is turned on; especially in older homes when hot and cold water pressures are not balanced. A pressure balance valve may be required.
Toilet tank leaks; plumbing parts inside the tank or seals may need replacing.

To make sure these plumbing repair problems are properly addressed, or when doing a remodeling project, you may want to enlist the services of a licensed plumbing contractor.

Plumbing a Remodel or New Construction

A remodeling project might include new plumbing design or new plumbing installation. You will want to meet with the plumber and all contractors involved and develop a timeline, so everyone works together and the project goes smoothly.

Before taking bids from potential plumbing contractors, make sure you have detailed plans. Provide each candidate with an identical copy of the plans. Rule of thumb is to get at least three different bids for a project.

Ask candidates if they are licensed to do plumbing. Also request references. Ask each candidate when they could start, and when the project would be completed. Take the time to check references on other projects they have completed.

To find a licensed Plumbing contractor in your area, use references from people you know, or check with a local licensing agency. Online resources are also available; people in Canada can find a qualified, licensed plumbing contractor at http://www.handycanadian.com.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Shower Pan Replacement - Putting it Right

Shower pan replacement gets done after you notice water damage around the bathroom. Sure there are several patch up methods to slow the leaks, but getting deep into the shower is really the only way to a permanent fix. Here's where to start.

1. Tear Out

Getting the old shower base out lets you see what has happened and why the leak progressed. Clearly failure of the shower pan liner happened if water got out of the shower.

Getting out the damaged parts is crucial for building back.

2. Judging What To Leave And What To Replace

It takes some experience to know where to stop when tearing out the damaged parts. Letting everything dry helps to make that call. Sometimes walls may need to come out and sometimes floors do too. Those decisions are easier after everything has a chance to dry.

3. No Shaky Starts Allowed

No matter what type of shower goes back, the sub-floor and the foundation for the shower must be put back to be stable and not shaky. That often means more bracing and possible replacing deteriorated members too.

4. What Shower Base?

More than one kind of shower base will work for a replacement. Tile ready shower pans eliminate much of the skilled mortar work. But often tile ready pans cost so much that you could pay an installer to build you a traditional mortar shower for the cost of the pan alone. Maybe you choose to forget the tile and replace with an acrylic shower.

Building a tile shower pan goes together just like a new one once you have the damage control behind you.

5. Layers To Waterproof

Building a waterproof tile shower goes together layer by layer. Key components are the liner membrane as well as a special tile shower drain. These components do the hidden work of catching all the water that makes it through the floor itself. Get these right and you get a shower with the water in the right places for many years.

Shower pan replacement goes together just like a new installation after you get the old parts out and the damage contained. It takes judgement to decide when to quit on repairs. Once the damaged areas are dried, it becomes easier to know what must come out and what can stay.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Kitchen Remodeling - A Checklist for Your Kitchen Remodeling Project

Kitchen remodeling takes both time and money. A major remodel with top-of-the-line appliances and cabinets can easily run more than $100,000. As for time, allow at least four months for a remodeling job or, more realistically, six to eight months. It takes about two months for custom cabinet orders, more time for planning, order processing, shipping, demolition, installation, moving back into your kitchen and re-organization.

While it's tempting to get started as quickly as possible once you decide to remodel, it's better to catch your breath, do your homework and think through your plans because you don't have the time or money to make mistakes.

Start with the basics. Consider what the primary uses of the kitchen will be then collect ideas for enhancing your project. Put some initial thought into this prior to meeting with a contractor. Following is a checklist of items to consider when planning your kitchen remodel.

Determine the primary uses of your kitchen:
cooking


food storage


dining


equipment / utensil storage


specialized food preparation areas


waste disposal


laundry


secondary media center


message station


mini-office


hobby / craft center


entertaining


mudroom


traffic hub

Enhance your kitchen remodeling project:
Brainstorm with household members


Find ideas in model homes, showrooms, home shows, magazines, books and catalogs


Appliances - ovens, stoves, cook tops, refrigerators, dishwashers, range, microwaves, hoods, and exhaust fans


Cabinets - wood cabinets in oak, maple, cherry, hickory, pine, birch, metal, plastic, cabinet re-facing, kitchen storage items and kitchen islands


Countertops - stone, marble, quartz, granite, solid surface, wood, metal and Formica


Flooring - hardwood flooring, cork, bamboo, laminate, linoleum flooring, flooring installation, repair and refinishing floors


Lighting - light controls, chandeliers, fixtures, lamps, fluorescent lights, recessed and spot lighting


Sinks and Fixtures - kitchen faucets, stainless steel, brass, plastic and glass handles


Windows - skylight windows, double hung and single hung windows, casement and garden windows for growing herbs and plants


Select a design professional and/or contractor that meets your needs

The more details you can determine prior to your kitchen remodeling project the better. It will make your remodeling project more efficient and, thus, less expensive.